SteveW chip--another convert
 

I had SteveW install one of his modified chips in my '86 911 this past weekend, and like everyone else on this board, am very pleased with the results and the customer service. First off, my car is bone stock, except for a Flowmaster muffler. The new chip was definitely noticable during my 'test run'. It gives immediate throttle response upon throttle opening. Again, like others mentioned, not a tire-burning increase, but a definite SNAP w/ acceleration.
"Wavey's" description in a previous post hit it right on the head.

Steve was especially accomodating, and walked me thru the steps of removing the DME box and replacing the chip.

Right On, Steve!!

Mike

and what is this 3.2 chip going for? my carrera is also stock except for the muffler :D sounds like fun :D

Hey guys, first off I would like to say that Mike's car was the first time I heard a Flowmaster muffler on a 911, other than sound clips I hear off the net, and I must say, it was very healthy sounding. Imagine the 911 exhaust tone combined with the deep growling note of a signature Flowmaster and it's heavy steel walled casing. A nice crisp grunt without being really much louder than stock. Very Porsche sounding, but different than the stock 3.2 sound. Plus he's got an exceptionally clean fresh ride. Two thumbs up! Bell, if you haven't chipped your car, what are you waiting for? :p Cost is a deal at $230, standard or custom modified to your specs and/or modifications.

Hey Steve W,

Are there any negative side effects from installing your chip? Besides the potential speeding tickets. [wink]

Mahalos,
Steve

well............i guess you could say i'm waiting for MY CAR LOL
it's been in the bodyshop for almost 2 months now.......yes that translates to ALL SUMMER so far.........:rolleyes:

Bell, hey I know how that feels. Last year my car was in the convertible shop for 7 weeks getting a new top made for it. They stitched up 4 iterations of the top until they could get it right. This year it was in the body shop for over two months for some light rear damage, and recently someone vandalized my top and two weeks ago, someone did a hit an run - smashed into my passenger door in a parking lot while I was dining with some friends in a restaurant. I guess back to the shops again for me. I must be jinxed or something.

rsr808, besides speeding tickets, no side effects I'm aware of. Your car idles the same, sounds the same, smells the same, and should have the same fuel consumption, unless you are now hot-rodding it everywhere you go. Guys generally are reporting a smoother power curve and deceleration, and a lack of popping in the exhaust on throttle closure, something they noticed as a problem with their stock chip.

Steve, this may have been asked before - if so, just point me to the thread - do you have any dyno numbers on your software?

Michael, it's difficult to provide dyno numbers because there are as many variations of chips I program as there are combinations of modifications guys do to their car, stock, premuffler, headers, SSIs, ExtrudeHoning, mass air flow sensors, the way the cam is timed, etc. and most guys don't run a stock car. There are also several variations of chips Porsche used in their cars from 84 to 89, each with different power curves, so while the gains may be different, the end result power will be the same. I tune and verify air/fuel ratios on road with a wideband exhaust air/fuel analyzer very much like the expensive Motec and Horiba analyzers. Basically if you optimize the ignition curve to match your fuel, and program the air fuel ratio to the max power point between 12.6 to 13.0:1 afr, you are going to get the max power your engine is capable of producing given its configuration. There are also numerous variations in the programming of the part throttle maps, that affect the response, acceleration, and characteristics of a car that a dyno cannot measure, because all it measures is power at wot. A few guys have dynoed their car, with before and after figures, and some have made postings either here or on Rennlist, but I don't have links to them - they would have to be searched. But to generalize, if you take the powercurve of a stock 3.2, a chip only would dyno something similar to this:

rpm.......stock hp...new hp....stock torque...new torque
3000.........87.........100.............153....... .........175
3500.......107.........116.............161........ ........174
4000.......125.........136.............164........ ........179
4500.......154.........165.............180........ ........193
5000.......180.........192.............189........ ........202
5500.......200.........213.............191........ ........203
6000.......210.........225.............184........ ........197

I noticed this popping after going with the SSI's and GHL 1-out. I'm looking forward to going with the Steve W chip as soon as I take out my Motronic box and and let him know how many pins in my original chip. Apparently, '87 was a transition year.

I wanted to make sure everything worked with stock chip after my first motor/trans R&R last weekend. Everything works, but now clutch slave cylinder leaking on top of trans at the boot.

Steve, one of these days...

Cheers,
Bob

Thanks for your info Steve.

Steve: I have a stock 84. Any issues with smog inspection if I were to change to one of your chips?

Scott, I don't anticipate any smog issues when you test your car because the idle fuel and ignition maps remain factory, as are the fuel maps at low loads also, so while cruising on the highway or putting around town, your fuel economy and emissions remain factory. For the California smog test, you should pass the idle test the same as you would the stock chip, and the rolling dyno test between 2000-2500 would not burn any richer than stock. A few guys have reported passing their smog tests with no problem. But, if one really were concerned, it really is a simple 5-10 minute procedure to pull out the box and swap the chip. And you don't need to remove your seat, whether it's manual or electric.

Scott--I also dread the strict smog nazi's here in Calif. I agree with SteveW, that the chip removal/replacement is so simple, that doing it every 2 yrs is worth the swap. Like i mentioned when i opened this thread, Steve was helpful in showing me how to access the DME box and swap chips. Even with my limited mechanical skills, i feel comfortable doing it. Plus the instruction sheet he sends (to you out of towners) is self explanatory.

rsr808--you have PM, bruddah.

Mike

Steve:

I have an 84 (as I mentioned). I seem to recall that the early 84's had the chip soldered. Am I correct? If I have a soldered chip, can I still replace it easily? :confused:

Some early 84s had the chip soldered, and if that's the case, it's pretty easy if one has some soldering skills to use a solder sucker tool and a soldering iron to remove and install a chip socket. If you are uncomfortable at doing it, you are welcome to send the box to me to do the conversion. Only way to tell though is to open the box and check inside. Pelican has a article here on removing the box and installing the chip if you want to check. It shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to take it out and open it.

Pelican's chip installation instructions