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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Bozeman, MT
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Yea for silver.
Phil

Old 07-30-2003, 01:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Jamie, silver's nice but, hey, banana yellow...come on!!!

FWIW, I'd recommend the hood fill gas tank.
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Old 07-30-2003, 02:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Jamie

I'm reviving this great thread to ask if you have any close-up shots of the completed work, and whether you ended up needing to add much filler etc...? I reckon I'm going to have a go at this on my own SC flared early car...

Cheers
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 11-02-2010, 02:29 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
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John,

Here are some pictures from a few years ago. Most of new pictures I found were too distant to capture the curvature.

Gratuitous Photos of my ST Replica
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you.
71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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Thanks Jamie

Hopefully I won't f#^% mine up
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Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 11-04-2010, 06:49 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
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John, That is the best part about metal. If you bend it too far, just bend it back.

btw, invest $40 or so in a shrinking disk. You will thank me later for this tip. This will make your metal finishing SO MUCH easier. You can get a near filler free surface with ease. It will drastically take out all hammer marks when used properly.

Also, a small pneumatic plannishing hammer works well. I bought one with a 16" throat that fits easily in the fender well. This will shorten the time to get the shape you want.

Do you have the cuts from your fenders or access to some? Use these as scrap and practice with different angles of hammer blows such that you see how the metal moves. Direct and off-center hammer blows will have different effects on the direction the steel moves. btw, spend your initial time getting the hard edge out of the flare. Carefully stretch it and flatten. This will pull the fender outward and provide the smooth lip.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you.
71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile
72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne
classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks
Old 11-05-2010, 06:23 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #26 (permalink)
 
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Sorry to resurrect this, but I'm just about to embark on a similar project. You modified SC flares for the rear...what did you use in the front again? I was thinking of reversing SC flares in the front, but I'm curious how yours line up.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:49 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #27 (permalink)
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Wow.. Blast from the past.

I used fiberglass ST fenders for the front.

I don't think reversed SC flares would look right. The height difference between the bumper edge and the lower fender edge is all wrong. I would think too much grafting and fab would be required. Plus the radius of the opening is drastically different between front and rear. You going to pie-cut that flare and tie it all together.

What is your goal? ST, RSR, turbo, custom? They all have different shapes and affect the overall look of the car.

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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you.
71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile
72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne
classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks
Old 12-11-2020, 01:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
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