camber problems

Rick Cabell · 08-07-2003, 08:56 AM

In the course of getting early 911 cars aligned, the shops often have a real hard time getting enough positive camber in the front end to meet spec. Even if you file open the 3 bolt holes, the strut mount hits the body up in the top of the strut tower. Anyone have any solutions? The lack of positive camber is so bad in todays case that it looks like the car is set up for oval track racing. Negitive camber in the right front. The car has never been wrecked, and all parts are new. I had the ride height right on the money before they started,stock height. Help!!

dad911 · 08-07-2003, 08:59 AM

Wow, I wish I had that problem. It is not possible to get enough 'negative' camber on most (mine included) 911 track cars. In your case, you may have a bent strut or spindle?

Rick Cabell · 08-07-2003, 09:07 AM

Both are new, and not bent!

masraum · 08-07-2003, 10:03 AM

Why would anyone want positive camber?? The stock settings are 0 camber, and the performance settings have negative camber. Positive is not generally part of a 911 alignment, or are you talking about not being able to get a small amount of negative instead of a ton. If that is the case then how much has the car been lowered? The average camber settings for the front of a 911 will vary anywhere from 0 to -1.5 deg and -.75 to -2 in the rear. Can you not get it into that range? When a 911 is lowered it adds negative camber. If the car has been lowered to extremely then the available camber may be extreme. If that's the case the best thing would probably be to either raise the car or for the front you could get RSR struts and have the spindle raised on the strut to allow for better settings on a lowered car.

Rick Cabell · 08-07-2003, 10:16 AM

Thanks Steve....
It's a bone stock 67S at stock ride height. NO, I didn't mean positve camber. It's at -4 right now! I just want to get it to -.5 .
I guess I'll modify the top strut mounting plate and open up the top of the body where the strut comes though. Any other thoughts would be great!

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Not that is helps but I have been very happy with 1.5 degrees negative camber in the front. I have noticed no excessive tire wear and the car handles much, much better than the factory settings. It is common for the older struts/spindles to wear and not allow camber settings at the factory specs. People actually pay a lot of money to get more camber than the spindles allow.

Rot 911 · 08-07-2003, 10:24 AM

Rick, something is seriously wrong with your set up. As previously stated with the top threaded end of the strut centered in the mounting hole you should be around -1 camber. If you move the threaded end towards the outside edge and still are at -4 either the mounts are screwed up somewhere or the "new" spindles have the wrong angle to them.

masraum · 08-07-2003, 10:33 AM

Wow, -4 is a bunch. My car is at -1, I think I am going to go to -1.25 or maybe -1.5, but it depends on the tires and how the car is driven. With -1 the previous owner's tires were showing serious lopsided wear, but with my current tires and my driving style, they wear evenly.

Chuck Moreland · 08-07-2003, 10:50 AM

Hmm, something sounds wrong here. '67s adjust camber with the control arm, not the top of the strut.

Later cars use the strut top as you are describing.

Rick Cabell · 08-07-2003, 11:35 AM

Chuck hit it right!
Up here in Vt. there are no alignment shops that are knowledgable. The guy had done several alignments for me but never a short wheel base car. I looked under the car and the ball joint was all the way outward. I loosened the two bolts and pushed the ball joint inward and the strut now stands much more verticle. After I did this and sat at my desk I saw another reply to my problem. It was Chucks post. Thanks guys!