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| View Poll Results: Clutch swap: Engine & tranny, or not? | |||
| Tried it both ways, I prefer the engine only. |
   
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1 | 11.11% |
| Tried it both ways, I prefer engine and transmission. |
  
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1 | 11.11% |
| I've done it once, and I did the engine only. |
  
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1 | 11.11% |
| I've done it once, and I did the engine and transmission. |
  
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6 | 66.67% |
| Voters: 9. This poll is closed | |||
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 220
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Clutch swap, what's easier?
Ok, it appears like I'm going to be needing to do a clutch swap really soon, slips bad hitting second, third, etc....
So what's the easier route to go? PS..Someone said I should check the clutch cable as this may cause "bad clutch" syndrome. Anyone know of what to check?
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__________________ Clay '80 SC coupe |
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08-08-2003, 07:49 PM
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Stressed Member
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Clay-
Just make sure there is some free pedal movement before you feel the tension of the clutch diaphram in the pedal. It is possible for wear of the clutch disk to result in the clutch being held partially open by tension in the cable. -Scott
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'70 911E short stroke 2.5 MFI. Sold  '56 Cliff May Prefab |
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08-08-2003, 09:08 PM
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Jamestown,NC USA
Posts: 1,291
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When you say slips bad, do you mean it revs in that gear but you aren't moving , or that you grind going in? Clutch slipping means that the clutch is contacting the flywheel but has no grip on the surface. If you are grinding it into gear, you should check your cable first and see if it is worn.
I kept having to adjust my clutch after long drives this spring and realized that my clutch and cable were fine, my release fork was cracked and flexing more all of the time. To answer the original question, i always take my engine/tranny out as a unit. Paul
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My ignition is retarded. |
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08-08-2003, 11:01 PM
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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Clay,
Get Waynes books. FWIW my clutch cable was bad, but appeared good. There was no appearant fraying upon removal. But when I started to stretch the cable it just pulled apart in several places, and such was my problem. A new cable took care of everything! Oh, if you have not ever removed and replaced the motor I strongly suggest you do the tranny and motor as a tandom unit! This is straight from my experience.
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ) MANLY babyblue honda '00 F250 7.3L (MINE!)'15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold )I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. Last edited by Groesbeck Hurricane; 08-09-2003 at 04:56 AM.. |
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08-09-2003, 04:53 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 220
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I've got Waynes book, maybe I missed the part about the clutch cable, I'll recheck. So should I pull the cable off and check it for what....fraying? Splits? If the cable were stretching or frayed, wouldn't that make the clutch NOT disengage, seems I have the opposite problem.
And yes, the engine revs w/o going any faster, right now it's only doing it when under full throttle high rpm's, I can overpower the clutch and the engine revs, but no goey forwardy, nice funky smell too....mmmmmm cluuuutch diiiiiisc.
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__________________ Clay '80 SC coupe |
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08-09-2003, 06:31 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Jamestown,NC USA
Posts: 1,291
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Thats a pretty good sign that your clutch and/or pressure plate is shot. Slap the calipers on the disc when you get it out and see what the thickness is. Just curious, they are 9mm thick when new i believe.
Paul
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My ignition is retarded. |
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08-09-2003, 11:17 AM
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1970 Porsche 911E
