Question to the prof, or who has succeed: sand/buff (or color sand).

[rnln]

I have see the pro did sand/buff too many times. I did sand/buff myself on various of my cars more than once and everytime I did, I wanted to ask this question but never sit down to ask.

How would I put my questions together. I know I am not good at this so bare with me. Let say, when the paint is untouched, before sand/buff, it's has orange pill and maybe sand (powder like if the painter is ****ty). After sanded, it is smooth but not shiny. After buffed, it can be perfect like water if the buffer did a good job. Correct?
Well, I never could get there yet. My job always looks dull, even duller compare to the fresh paint before sand/buff, althought it is smooth. If I look at it very careful, I can see a thin layer of cloud like very fine squirl marks which makes the surface look cloudy.
Is it my technique, or is it the materials I use, , or if I didn't buff it enough, or is it just plainly that I am not good enough? Tell me what I missed please.

The tool I use is this:


The pad I usually use first is this (exactly) after sanded.


Then I use something like this to finalize it:

[McLovin]

Impossible to know exactly, from the info given. As you have suggested, it is either the materials or your technique, or both.

My guess it is mostly the materials you are using. If, after your final colorsand, someone set you up with the right polishes and pads (and the instructions for the order to use them), my guess is you would get a mirror shine.

You have to have the right materials, in the right order, to bring the shine back up after the colorsand.

[rnln]

The pad I use is on the second picture. Look at the pad on the first picture, it looks different. It looks more "fur". Is the more "fur" pad better then the one in the second pic?

[Rot 911]

I suspect you are using too coarse of a sandpaper for your wet sanding and/or not using the correct grades of medium when you buff. Most everyone now uses foam pads, but the wool bonnets work fine if you are careful. Look at this thread and see if it helps: Painting the Ducktail, Part II

[rnln]

Reading your other thread, the differences I see are:
1- The wool pad you are using is diff compare to mine is that the wool/hair looks longer. Mine is shorter.
2- for sand paper, I use 1500 new, then old piece (which is already smoothier)
3- for the compounds I use blue magic as first, then use Null Finish, with the wool pad.
4- Last, I use the Null Finish on the foam.
Can you see anything I do incorrect?
I might not be correct but don't feel the foam is better than the wool. I feel it is to refine at the last stage. It will slowly take out more of those little squirl mark, very litle and a takes long time. On speed, I always try to go the lowest because I affraid it will burn.

[haycait911]

FWIW I first sand with a firm foam pad and 800 to knock down the peel. then 1500 by hand. that's hand, as in the whole hand, not just the fingers. lots of water helps the paper keep moving and not stop while your hand continues on. then 2500. then a coarse/medium polish with a rotary polisher at low to medium speed. I like Farecla G3 or 3M rubbing compound in the squirt bottle. then a finshing polish like Farecla G10 or 3M finishing glaze. I like the 3M foam pad, with the bumps. safer than wool and much less heat. wool was originally intended for lacquer when you wanted to heat the paint to help it flow out. not needed or wanted with modern paint. and LOTS of water, at every step. you will get very messy. I've done many jobs with this process and it's nearly foolproof.

ps. be very careful around corners and edges.

[rnln]

Originally Posted by haycait911

... LOTS of water, at every step.

You meant water even when buffing? Are you saying puting water on the paint surface with compound?

Originally Posted by haycait911

ps. be very careful around corners and edges.

I know. I did suffer this more than once. Thanks.