Alignment specifications
 

Guys,

what's a good setup for the street and the occasional BBR runs for my brown charriot. I got the new tires, put the turbo tie rods and the steering rack spacers on.

Now its time to take it to the alignment shop to prevent the front tire disaster from last weekend.

ingo

This is what I went w/. you could take about .5 out of the camber to ease tire wear if you are going to be driving mostly on staight roads. I love the set up.

Camber- Front L&R -1.5 / Rear L&R -2.0
Toe - Front 1/16" total / Rear 1/8" total
Caster – L&R 6.0

Ride Height
Front 25 ”
Rear 24 1/2”

Hmm, there are lots of variations, but this seems pretty middle of the road

Front

Toe camber caster
1/32" -1 deg max (as long as both sides are equal)

Rear

Toe camber
1/16" -1.5 deg

That's pretty aggressive, but not really aggressive. To make it more aggressive add -.5 deg camber front and rear to make it lest aggressive subtract -.5 deg camber front and rear

A good aggressive street alignment set-up is 1-1.5 negative camber in front, and 1.5-2.0 negative in the rear. Make the rear .5 to 1.0 degrees more negative than what you set the front to.

Set the rear toe to the most toe-in that will still be in spec. In front, set it to spec.

Ha! We all replied at the same time. :cool:

Cat's away, the mice will play today Tyson? ;)

Would any of you use different settings if a car has:
- plastic or polybronze bushings and monoballs? (For example, if the rear suspension has no rubber bushings to flex, can / should you use less toe-in?)
- significantly wider-than-stock tires?
- a strut brace? (If the strut towers will have less flex, can / should you use less camber?)

Oh, and what's the best way to remove the sealant covering the front strut camber plates?

Put another way, are the recommended settings for the track different between a stock 911 and a race-modified one, and why?

Yes, it all changes with a track prepped car. It's incremental and dependant on so many things, that it comes down to tuning at the track. Tire pyrometers, chalk, and the seat of the pants come in to play as well as the stop watch of course.

Numbers given are starting points, and getting the most out of your car involves a lot of personal R&D. Tire pressures are probably them most important aspect of setting up a car, and that is entirely dependant on personal experience. It's like predicting the weather. So many variables, that it just can't be predicted. People can give you rough estimates, just like a weatherman can tell you when it will probably rain.