Rolling fenders - how to avoid paint cracking
 

Since putting on 7s and 8s and having the car lowered (measures slightly below Euro - but damn if that thing isnt slammed all the way to the ground) I couldnt be happier with the look of the car.

Unfortunately, I was too stupid to put in thicker torsion bars (someone tell me its not a big deal, everyone lowers without beefing up the torsion bars... please) and Im getting some rub on the right front tire when going over steep undulations in the road.

I plan on using the 'Pelican recommend' wooden baseball bat and a jack stand to roll the lip inside, but how do I avoid cracking the paint? Will a simple hair drayer be enough to warm everything up or will I need something hotter?

Danke,

Hotter....most harware stores sell heat guns. Mine is a Makita.

I've seen people 'slice' the paint along the inner lip with a razor blade, prior to rolling, to control where it will crack. Also, if you increase negative camber, you will reduce rub.

In my opinion it can be a big mistake to lower cars without considerring other suspension mods. You will probably be bottoming out on the shock rubber stops, and have geometry/bump-steer issues.

My '87 was lowerred by PO, and only mod was heavier sway bars. It was a pretty hairy ride at limerock, wouldn't turn-in, and very darty under braking. I'm pretty sure it was hitting the front bump-stops.

Heat gun, TLC and I used a large wood dowel. Its much softer wood than the baseball bat, therefore it absorbs a bit of the "stress".

I had a couple of "beefy" friends (200 lbs +) slightly bounce the bumper as I turned the dowel...

Take your time and dont try to do it at once. I had to repeat the process several times (dont want to get things too hot, better to have several successful attempts than one failure).

Good Luck, be patient...

Bob:)

Isn't dependent on what paint is on the car ? Some paints are more brittle than others. Not sure if heating them will reduce the brittleness.

-Don

I know there are lots of techniques for "rolling" your fenders. My body guy used a block of wood and a big hammer and went to town on it. No chips or any issues and the metal is almost folded completely. I guess experience has got to count for something.

i've noticed that repaints crack more than OE paint.

I used a large soft dowel with a cam lobe profile. heated the paint, then slipped the smaller profile between the tire and the fender at an angle, then rolled the cam profile to the vertical and consequently the lip rolls up with it.

Slow and sure around the inside. No paint cracking.

Stuttgart, my car is similar. I lowered to just under euro height, put in 22/29s, turbo tie rods and Chiuck's bronze bearings on a car with Bilstein sports and 7s and 8s.

Looks great, but better handles great, feels like a new car.