Druck Press virgin

Jay07 · 08-21-2003, 06:12 AM

Can someone please help me understand all things druck!

What exactly is druck Press?
How is it measured?
What should it read when cold, normal and warm?
What does it read when you have a problem?

thanks in anticipation guys.

Jacob
87 carrera

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Druck means "pressure" in German. I believe it's measured in Bar and rule of thumb is it goes up about 1 Bar per 1000 rpms. Chances are, if you have a low-pressure problem, you'll have other symptoms besides the gauge. The senders go bad all the time, so your gauge may peg at 5. If the red light goes on while you're driving down the road, shut the engine off immediately and coast to the shoulder. But that doesn't happen too much.

Rot 911 · 08-21-2003, 06:16 AM

Druck = Press

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Kurt, don't scare him. He's asking about pressure, not temp.

s_wilwerding · s_wilwerding's Garage

Druck is German for pressure - the gauge shows oil pressure. Some of them are measured in PSI, some are measured in bar (atmospheric pressure). 1 bar is roughly 14 psi. When my SC just starts, usually the pressure is around 4 bar. When you're driving, the bar should roughly equal each thousand RPM (at idle of 1000 RPM, you should be at 1 bar, 4000 RPM should be a 4 bar). My gauge always read slightly high. When you're in trouble, the gauge will be lower than the comparable RPM. For example, if you're driving along at 4000 RPM and your gauge is reading 1 bar, you've got a problem.

Rot 911 · 08-21-2003, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Richard LeSchander
Kurt, don't scare him. He's asking about pressure, not temp.

Yeah, slow brain this morning. Figured that out as soon as I posted. Managed to edit my post in the one minute it took you to respond!

masraum · 08-21-2003, 06:38 AM

When the engine is cold at idle you'll probably see between 2 and 4 bar or 30 and 60 psi. It'll probably max out at about 5-5.5 bar. Once the engine/oil is up to temp you'll probably run about 1-1.5 bar per 1000 rpm again topping out at around 5 bar.

BGCarrera32 · 08-21-2003, 07:50 AM

I might also add that the sending units for this vintage of car are notoriously lousy. If your gauge doesn't progress smoothly with engine rpm, is twitching all over the place, or pegs out the instant you pick up engine speed, the sending unit is most likely bad. You can also try cleaning the connection to it. The sending unit is on the passenger side of the engine fan, small canister thing sticking up at an angle with probably 1 wire to it. They are about $75 to replace, you need a 15/16" Crowfoot wrench to sneak under it for removal, and its a 5 minute job.

-BG

Jay07 · 08-21-2003, 08:28 AM

Thanks guys, this helps me to understand it a little more, but why do you need to measure the oil pressure?

Jacob

Early_S_Man · 08-21-2003, 08:40 AM

Jacob,

Here are a few past threads that might be of interest from a search of the archives ...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?action=showresults&searchid=385903&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending

Hugh R · 08-21-2003, 09:56 AM

The oil pressure is important because your crankshaft is held suspended away from the main bearings (rod bearings as well) by the pressure. Less oil pressure means that the crankshaft is rubbing on the bearings, as opposed to being suspended. Higher pressure also should mean higher oil flow which means more cooling/removing contaminants.

BTW, one bar is short for Barometric the air pressure at sea level is 14.7 pounds per square inch, or one bar.

scottb · 08-21-2003, 10:38 AM

BG: You identified a problem I've been having...."druck" gauge has sometimes been pegging at the top, but then other times settles down. Sounds like a bad sender.

I currently have my fan and housing out of the car (at Al Reed's while I'm replacing the alternator). Is this the time to replace the sending unit? Can you post a digital picture of its location?

Thanks for the help.

Scott

surflvr911sc · surflvr911sc's Garage

Scott, here is where the oil pressure sender for the gauge is. As I recently found out, it’s kind of a PITA to remove and install.

JW suggested removing the A/C bracket but that requires removing the muffler on the 3.2 so I did it the hard way. I removed the oil line that goes from the camshaft tower to the case, it also connects to the chain tensioner housing. Then you can back the hollow oil line bolt that the holds on the housing that the sender mounts to. Then remove the old sender but wait to install the new sender until everything else is back together. A crows foot comes in real handy for that.
PITA sender install

JK-81SC · 08-21-2003, 11:26 AM

Ryan,

Sorry to take this post in a different direction, but that is one very, very nice looking engine! Got any more pics you can post? I hope to have mine looking as nice some day.

surflvr911sc · surflvr911sc's Garage

Wish mine looked that good. I stole the picture from the Engine Detailing Tech article. If you are going to steal a picture of an engine, might as well make one that looks that beautiful. Shhh, don’t tell Wayne.

JK-81SC · 08-21-2003, 11:56 AM

No problem, your secret is safe. Thanks for the info.

scottb · 08-21-2003, 11:58 AM

Doc Ryan:

I've got my shroud out (you know about the alternator problem). Will that make the job any easier?

Scott (sans alternator)

surflvr911sc · surflvr911sc's Garage

It should be easier. You should be able to get an open-end wrench on it with the fan housing removed. The biggest problem I had was that I couldn’t get the sender out of the housing w/out putting it in a vice. It was really on there.

If the housing loosens up on you while you on trying to break the torque (like what happen to me) you will need to loosen the oil line up in order to tighten the housing back up. It loosened up on me and I still couldn’t get the sender out of the housing until I removed it all.

The fan housing being removed won’t help you get the oil line out if you need to.

scottb · 12:36 PM

I don't want to get into major surgery, but if I'm in there I'd like to fix things that are relatively simple. If you were me, with the shroud out, would you "go for it?"

Thanks.

dotorg · 08-21-2003, 12:43 PM

I've been trying to figure out for ages whats up with my oil pressure and temp gauges...

My oil pressure gauge is around 1-1.5 bar at idle, rollows RPMS up to 4k and never goes above that. Prior to buying the car I remember seeing on a test-drive it go well above that, but there were other problems with the car that got fixed. When I picked the car up, I noticed after a while it never goes much above 4bar. Not sure if its a pressure problem, sender problem or gauge problem.

Unfortunately my temp gauge is always at the bottom... never budges, and I've had no luck at all figuring out why.