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Need advice on repaint - PPG V.S. GLASURIT

I have my car at the body shop for repaint. They use PPG Deltron 2000 BC, I think it's a single stage. My car is black (non metalic). I have been researching paints on the board and alot of people prefer glasurit. Can you please give me your advise.

Just to give you a little history - I visited about twelve bodyshops in south Florida and have been quoted up to $9,000 for strip and repaint with some bodywork. Again some of the shops used Spies Hecker, PPG Glasurit etc.

None of these shops would give me a firm price in writting. I was prepared to spend $7,500 with one of these shops. Unfortunately most of them were run by premadonnas and the wait was very long and no firm commitment on the final cost, so I kept looking.

I just found small body shop who gave me a firm estimate in writting for $3,200 and I provide all the parts and seals which I think is about $1,000. I know this sounds very cheap and I'm a little skeptical. But it was the first guy I felt comfortable with and he spent alot of time with me going over the car. He even refused to take a deposit on the job when I offered it. He said pay when the car is finished.

Let me know your comments or experiences.

Thanks
Eric
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:35 PM
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I heard that Glasurit will stand up to brake fluid. I don't know if it is true or not. I know Imron is very good paint. I also would not give a firm price for a paint job unless it was very spacific. You never know what you will find under the paint.
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:49 PM
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Dean I would agree with you. You never know what you will find. However I have heard, yet seen a couple horror stories while visiting bodyshops. One guy had his 911 in a well known shop for nine months and the bill doubled by the end.
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:54 PM
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Glasurit is the factory paint and is of exceptional quality. Whenever I ask someone in the body shop / paint business their opinion about the "best" paint - "Glasso" is always the first one mentioned.

Given an equal amount of talent and experience (not always available!) -it's the hours of preparation that makes the difference between a good and a great paint job. If you have $4-500 in paint and materials and $1000 in parts and seals, plus the labor hours for the painter shooting primer and top coats, how many hours of prep can be provided for $3200?
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:06 PM
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Eric, PPG Deltron 2000 BC is a base coat clear coat system. The BC stands for base coat. It is the top of the line in the PPG system for BC/CC. Check this link for more info, http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp?Cat=9. The quality is pretty high but this is only the base coat. What will determine final finish quality will be the clear coat. PPG offers several top of the line clears but they also offer a "value line" of clear designated as the Omni line. Many body shops will use the Deltron base color due to its superior color performance but shoot a cheaper clear to save a little money on materials. The difference in appearance may not show initially but teh better products have more UV inhibitors and higher quantities of the urethane resins and will hold up better. Look at the ppg site and make sure that they are using a top quality clear. I have used PPG products with good results. I do not have experience with glasurit but have always heard good things about it but know that it is very expensive. Hope this helps.
Old 08-21-2003, 08:17 PM
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Cool

I like
DX-40 primer
Glasurit metalic, Glasurit clear NG, IMO
Imron clear

but I doubt you'll be able to get a shop to mix and match that
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:46 PM
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Spies Hecker is a good paint as well.

Have heard some talk about the tints in the Glasurit US export stuff having issues. Don't have specifics, just heard it in a side conversation

Anyone else hear that?
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by GeorgeM

tints in the Glasurit US export stuff having issues.

Anyone else hear that?
no..

but if I ever found a weakness problem it'll turn the switch to "off" pretty quick.. I don't care if I eventually have to use Awlgrip marine epoxy.. it's molecular chain is longer than Imron. there is a few guys who are paint guys. I'm not. they would know.

I just want to know what the game is........Ron
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:43 PM
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News Flash

after my last post I start thinking.. maybe I have some "saved" info..
so this is some of my chopped notes.

" PAINTS----- wcroty says, Lesonal and Sikkens are owned by Akzo Nobel Coatings
Herburts (Standox) is now owned by Dupont
Glasurit is owned by BASF
It doesn't mean a thing what the original manufacture of the paint was, because the aftermarket paint you will buy is not the same as used by the OEM. The OE paints are a thermoset urethane and we can not duplicate this process in the bodyshop.
My choice would be Sikkens as it has the newest resin technology on the market. (Still not the same as the OEM) but in my opinion the best on the market at this time.
Glasso, is and has always been on the high end of car refinisning. The 55 line was a big improvement over the 54 line. On the oher hand if you haven't sprayed the new Sikkens Autobase Plus give it a try, it Rocks."
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:56 PM
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I think Glasurit has a new automated tint-matching system out. It actually produces 4-5 "shades" of a specific color for the painter to pick from I hear it is pretty spendy, so only the real high-end shops are bound to be using it.

Oh, and on a (non-metallic) black car, I would use PPG 9300 single stage if you want to keep the cost down, and still have a good paint job. That will save you the clear coat stage, and be just as glossy, if not more.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Eric Coffey
Glasurit has a new automated tint-matching system out. It actually produces 4-5 "shades" of a specific color for the painter to pick from
, I would use PPG 9300 single stage if you want to keep the cost down, and still have a good paint job. That will save you the clear coat stage, and be just as glossy, if not more.
I think I shot 9300 if it's acrylic urethane. it was just as nice as the Imron black.. no clear on either one and stayed beautiful for years.
for entertainment is a pic of at least 5 yr old Imron black with no clear on my old '71 split bumper Camaro. and the best is it was never waxed or polished.. it was posted before.
only washed and dried with 2 chamos[sic]

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Old 08-22-2003, 01:32 AM
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Some very good info here. I would recomend that you never skimp on the quality of the paint. I did one time and the paint is not durable (rock chips and loss of shine)

Ron, nice pic, it really shows the hills and valleys of the paint
I mean the shine
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Old 08-22-2003, 04:20 AM
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I use PPG Clears on all of my work that I do. It holds up great.
I wouldn't use their Onni Line.
DCU2002
or DCU2010 are the ones I use.

Basecoat manfucturer doesn't matter unless you are trying to exactly match an existing color, or are trying to stay very true to the original color. But, I use PPG bases also, simply because their colors recipes seem to be alot better than Dupont's.

I haven't shot Glasruit in years, but it is truly some incredible stuff.
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Old 08-22-2003, 04:23 AM
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I used Glasurit simply because it was warranted for the life of the car against defects when sprayed by a certified shop.
Old 08-22-2003, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ///alpinepower
I used Glasurit simply because it was warranted for the life of the car against defects when sprayed by a certified shop.
That's a good point that bears mentioning. I had forgotten about all that warranty paperwork that I had to sign after my last restoration project that was done with the Glasurit 55 (base/clear) line.

I think that the lifetime finish warranty (100% labor/materials for the first 5 years, 50% after that) applies as long as you own the car and the paint/prep was done by a Glasurit certified shop.

The only exception was the single stage urethane 21 line, which had a 5 year finish warranty.

Good luck,
Tim
Old 08-22-2003, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoninLB
I think I shot 9300 if it's acrylic urethane. it was just as nice as the Imron black.. no clear on either one and stayed beautiful for years.
Ron did you color sand/buff out the urethane or is that just how it looked after shooting? Either way, hella sweet!
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:07 AM
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My prefference for a solid black job would be a non BC/CC system, IOW, a single stage. I might get criticised for this, but black is black, as long as it's superior quality. For that reason, I still like the Dupont Centari (old formula) acrylic enamel with hardener and about 10 coats. Leaves plenty for color sanding and polishing a couple of times.

Note: Dupont Centari 5000 (new formula) is urethane. I have that on my race car and it's one tough paint. It's even tough to sand.
Old 08-22-2003, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kurt V
Ron did you color sand/buff out the urethane or is that just how it looked after shooting? Either way, hella sweet!
it was buffed after the final coat was blasted on at high psi and high thinner.. so almost no orange peel.. and that is a driveway paint job.
the Ruby Red engine shroud that I posted a few times is final coat with no color sanding or buffing..
and on the above pic, if you look at the rust on the fender lip that confirms that it's old paint..........Ron
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Old 08-22-2003, 09:46 AM
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Also important in that price is the final wet sand and buffing process. What are they doing post-shoot? Just shooting paint usually isn't too difficult. What they do afterward can turn chicken crap into chicken salad.

-BG
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Old 08-22-2003, 10:05 AM
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Old 08-22-2003, 10:44 AM
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