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Separation of Engine and G50 Transmission

I've done lots of engine R&R's, but this is the first with a G50. I've got this out as a unit, but wondered if the G50 had a different procedure (prep) before removing from the engine. This a 1987 "early" G50 if that matters.

The engine stud nuts are all removed, starter is off and slave cylinder is still on the car. Trans only seems to want to come about 1/8" off, and the clutch release lever is pushed tightly against the trans case.

Any previous knowledge here?

Thanks!

Chris Brown
With a 3.2 now going up for sale!
Old 08-23-2003, 06:55 PM
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You have to remove the clutch fork pivot rod. Take off the keeper for it and then screw in a 6 mm bolt and pull the shaft out. Also remove the clutch slave.
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Old 08-23-2003, 08:33 PM
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Yep. What Dean said.

You have to get the clutch release fork removed in order to get the fork to let go of the ears on the release bearing. Only way to do that is to:

1. Remove the slave cylinder

and

2. Remove the pivot shaft that holds the fork in place. Up near the top of the trans., just below the slave cylinder, there's a 10mm bolt holding the tab of the pivot shaft. Remove the bolt and insert a longer one (M6 size) partway into the end/center of the shaft. Grab the end of the bolt with pair of vice grips and tap the vise grips with a hammer to draw the shaft out.

If the bearings for the shaft are really dry, the tapping will be more like smacking! It'll come out.

Just as an FYI for future people doing a search on how to remove the engine.............. It's pretty much impossible to remove just the engine alone (leaving the trans. in the car) because of this pivot shaft for the clutch fork. Sure you can probably get the shaft out while the trans. is in the car. But I don't think there's a way you can effectively align the clutch fork and pivot shaft when you're trying to reinstall everything. So on G50 cars you're better off taking the engine and trans. out as a whole.
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Old 08-24-2003, 06:44 AM
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Thanks But....

I understand what you folks are saying, but there are two issues that complicate this. The first is that the release arm has two pivot shafts, and only one is accessable from the driver's side of the trans and there is no access hole for the passenger side. Now if I could get the first pivot shaft out, perhaps then I could use a _long_ bolt and remove the second shaft

However..

The first shaft is not threaded internally, it is solid. Ugh. So I may need to drill and tap it (fun on such hardened material!) or ???

Wondering,

Chris

Old 08-24-2003, 08:25 AM
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Chris,

It looks to me that you've got the updated pivot shaft. Porsche redesigned the shaft in late 88 to address some problems with the shaft bearings drying up and seizing. The new shaft has a plastic cap covering the end of the shaft.

There is only one shaft for the fork. It slides through the trans., through both bushings in the fork and then seats in a bore on the passenger side of the trans.

See here:



Shaft #3 is the old one that didn't have the plastic cap. You'd know if you had #3 because the tab that holds the shaft in there is welded to the shaft. You picture looks like the tab is separate from the shaft. #3 has been discontinued for the new assembly beneath it (shaft #14 and all the parts surrounding it). I think you need to grab what's in the hole and pull it out. It should be a plastic cap (#16), followed by a bearing(#15), followed by a rubber ring seal (#21). Once you get those out you should be able to see the end of the shaft and pull it by threading a long M6 bolt into the shaft?

Keep us posted. We'll get it.

Also check this topic for more pictures:

Clutch release bearing - how does it work?
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Old 08-24-2003, 08:38 AM
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I think if shaft #14 was installed assbackwards the threaded hole would be on the wrong end. I don't know if it can only go in one way though
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Old 08-24-2003, 12:44 PM
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Chris,

I have written a tech article for Wayne regarding the G50 Carreras, unfortunately, it has not been posted as of yet. I can fwd a preliminary copy to you.

Looks like in the above drawing number 3 is the shaft. On the updated shafts, there should be a bolt holding the small metal piece onto the shaft, and another bolt holding that assembly to the tranny. If that is not the case, you could grap hold of the metal piece and pull and or gently tap the shaft out. Note, it may be stuck in there with old grease and rust.

However, looking at your picture, it seams that the metal piece on the shaft is missing as well as the bolt (#11). Was the bolt and the metal piece on the shaft there?
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Last edited by Jim Smolka; 08-24-2003 at 01:35 PM..
Old 08-24-2003, 01:19 PM
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Got the plastic cap...

now that I have cleaned up the area, I can see it. Gave it a quick try with pliers - it is not going to come off easily. I may ruin it in the process (no big deal I suppose). The retaining bolt and metal "clamp" were removed before the image was taken.


Thanks guys!!!

Chris
Old 08-24-2003, 01:53 PM
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a slide hammer is sometimes needed to get the shaft out. you have to make a small head bolt to fit the tool. a common dent puller is what i use, except with a bolt instead of a screw.
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Old 08-24-2003, 01:59 PM
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I'm sure the shaft can go in either way. So I think it's threaded on both ends.

Good to hear you've got that plastic cap. That means you've got the Porsche updated shaft assembly. No big deal if you mess up the shaft a little when pulling it out (of course not that you'd want to mess it up....) as I don't think a replacement shaft is all that costly. $40 from Pelican.
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Old 08-24-2003, 09:44 PM
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It is out and engine separated, but..

I need to get a new set of needle bearings, as the innner set just fell apart when the shaft was removed. But it came out quite easily with just a little levering against the case.

Thanks for all the help guys! Now I just have to post my ad for the engine...

Chris
Old 08-25-2003, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KTL
I'm sure the shaft can go in either way. So I think it's threaded on both ends.

Kevin,
I am pretty sure there is only a tapped hole in one side. At least there was on my shaft. Opps that came out wrong
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Old 08-25-2003, 07:11 PM
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Thanks for the correction Dean. I didn't remember there being a right or wrong way to install the pivot shaft.

And keep your personal problems to yourself- this is a family show!
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Old 08-25-2003, 08:00 PM
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Old 08-25-2003, 08:57 PM
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mr smolka,
I would appreciate a copy also. I have an 87 I'm planning on refreshing this winter.
thanks
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Old 08-26-2003, 06:03 PM
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Re: It is out and engine separated, but..

Quote:
Originally posted by CBRacerX
I need to get a new set of needle bearings, as the innner set just fell apart when the shaft was removed. But it came out quite easily with just a little levering against the case.

Thanks for all the help guys! Now I just have to post my ad for the engine...

Chris
Unless you lost some of the bearings or they are damaged you are ok. The needle bearings don't have anything retaining them except the packing grease.

BTW, I am absolutely sure that the shaft can be put in backwards on the updated release fork. When I pulled mine out a backwards shaft was what I found. Previous to me some moron had been in there. I ended up having to turn the engine so each of the pressure plate bolts were exposed in the starter hole to remove the pressure plate.
Delivered the trans to a shop with the pressure plate still on it and they wouldn't tell me how they pulled the shaft. It still drives me nuts trying to figure how they did it without drilling the shaft or the case.

Wayne
"Stupidity is it's own reward."
Old 08-27-2003, 06:16 AM
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G50 trans to separate from 3.2

Hi Jim: With regards to this tech article you wrote on the G50 Carreras - any chance of me getting a copy?

Many thanks,

James
james.thompson@rogers.com

Quote:
Originally posted by Jim Smolka
Chris,

I have written a tech article for Wayne regarding the G50 Carreras, unfortunately, it has not been posted as of yet. I can fwd a preliminary copy to you.

Looks like in the above drawing number 3 is the shaft. On the updated shafts, there should be a bolt holding the small metal piece onto the shaft, and another bolt holding that assembly to the tranny. If that is not the case, you could grap hold of the metal piece and pull and or gently tap the shaft out. Note, it may be stuck in there with old grease and rust.

However, looking at your picture, it seams that the metal piece on the shaft is missing as well as the bolt (#11). Was the bolt and the metal piece on the shaft there?
Old 12-01-2006, 09:50 PM
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Here is a link to the article.

Jim

http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/911%20Clutch%20Job.pdf
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Old 12-04-2006, 02:27 AM
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You'll need to take the cover off for the shifter and unscrew the bolt on the end of the shifter linkage. Its located on between the front and back seat. If you let it down without disconnecting the shifter linkage you can bend the shifter rod. It only one small bolt.

QUOTE=CBRacerX;929771]I've done lots of engine R&R's, but this is the first with a G50. I've got this out as a unit, but wondered if the G50 had a different procedure (prep) before removing from the engine. This a 1987 "early" G50 if that matters.

The engine stud nuts are all removed, starter is off and slave cylinder is still on the car. Trans only seems to want to come about 1/8" off, and the clutch release lever is pushed tightly against the trans case.

Any previous knowledge here?

Thanks!

Chris Brown
With a 3.2 now going up for sale![/QUOTE]
Old 09-23-2018, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1988targa View Post
You'll need to take the cover off for the shifter and unscrew the bolt on the end of the shifter linkage. Its located on between the front and back seat. If you let it down without disconnecting the shifter linkage you can bend the shifter rod. It only one small bolt.

QUOTE=CBRacerX;929771]I've done lots of engine R&R's, but this is the first with a G50. I've got this out as a unit, but wondered if the G50 had a different procedure (prep) before removing from the engine. This a 1987 "early" G50 if that matters.

The engine stud nuts are all removed, starter is off and slave cylinder is still on the car. Trans only seems to want to come about 1/8" off, and the clutch release lever is pushed tightly against the trans case.

Any previous knowledge here?

Thanks!

Chris Brown
With a 3.2 now going up for sale!
[/QUOTE]

This thread is from 2006, and my original question (answered above) was around the clutch fork pivot shaft. But perhaps someone will find the shifter rod separation detail helpful also.
Old 09-23-2018, 08:04 PM
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