Long Term Storage

[Halm]

A quick search in the archives on how to store a car mostly refer to putting a car away for the winter. I have a slightly different twist on this topic.

I am pulling a running 2.2 E motor -with MFI- to be replaced with a fresh 2.7 RS type. I will keep the 2.2 in case I ever sell and the buyer wants to return to complete originality. What should I do to protect the older motor? Drain the sump, the gas lines? What about putting a marine oil spary into the cylinders?

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

[Early_S_Man]

Hal,

Here is what I would do for long-term MFI engine storage:

1. Remove old spark plugs. Spray marine oil fog into each clyinder. Turn engine over several times manually, and repeat oil fogging. Install new spark plugs with Permatex Anti-Sieze Compound on threads ... not full tightness, just snug!

2. Remove distributor from engine at TDC #1, remove cap & rotor and felt plug under rotor, and soak distributor body overnight in B-12 Chemtool ... dry out with compressed air, and oil thoroughly ... especially down the camshaft where felt plug resides. Apply Bosch grease (or silicone grease) to cam and rubbing block. Reassemble and re-install on engine.

3. Drain sump and leave open for extended period (3 -4 hours in warm, dry weather) to allow fumes to dissipate. Dry bottom of crankcase with rags to soak up as much oil as possible. Place 8 oz. bag of desicant inside sump on folded shop rag, and don't install sump screen or drain plug ... Duct tape over sump plate ... labeled 'No Screen, Dessicant inside -- Remove before installation!'

4. If heat exchangers still in place ... place 8 oz. desicant bag iside collector of each side. Cap with two layers of duct tape, and bolt plywood cap over outlet on each side. If exhaust ports are open, duct tape and then install plywood cap over each port.

5. Temporarily remove MFI pump, injector lines, and injectors from engine. Drain used oil and gasoline from injection pump. Blow out injector lines with compressed air, soak lines and injectors overnight in Berryman's B-12 Chemtool ... blow out lines after soaking. Refill pump sump with your choice of new engine oil. Fill gasoline plenum area with Marvel Mystery Oil, and assemble lines and injectors to pump on workbench in 'butterfly' formation ... turn pump over by hand several times until red oil is spraying uniform cone pattern from all injectors (one gallon Ziploc bag over each injector to contain mess from spray) ... disassemble 'butterfly' and re-install pump, lines and injectors on engine. Don't install cogged injector belt ... leave off so pump can be turned over once every six months, or so.

6. Cap each injector stack with duct tape, and tag air cleaner assembly: 'Remove duct tape from injector stacks before turning engine over!'

It would probably be a good idea to remove duct tape from injection stacks and turn engine over manually (slowly) every few months ... remove spark plugs and re-fog the cylinders again, turn over injection pump a couple of turns, then button everything back up again. Desicant bags should probably be removed and replaced (or refreshed by baking for several hours per instructions on bag) annually.

Good luck!

[Halm]

Warren, Thanks for the info. This is a couple more steps than I expected so the procedure is really appreciated.