Should I double check axle bolts??
 

Swapped in new replacement Lobros for my '74 from Pelican last week. Seems there has been some confusion over a typo in Wayne's book over the proper bolt torque. I re-used my 8 mm thread diameter, hex head bolts and torqued to 31 or 34 (can't recall), anyway, I didn't use 60 ft/lbs. which I believe he stated in the book. Did I do correctly? And have I read it somewhere that these bolts need to be checked again after several days of driving? Thanks.
Ryan

The M10s are the ones that get the 60 ft/lbs. You're right to use less torque on M8s.

BUT: Doesn't your '74 have the four-bolt style CV, with roll pins where the fifth and sixth bolts would go? Unless someone changed them, I think you <i>should</i> have the M10s in there.

It is also a good idea to check a few days after replacement.

Definitely recheck them. I replaced my CV boots and bolted everything together. Rechecked them a month later and some where a little loose. I believe many say to replace the bolts and washers everytime you remove the axles.

the dirt seal sets after awhile thinning the connection

cowtown,
yes, i have the 4-bolt with roll pin style. i re-used the washers, little plates and 8 mm bolts that were on it. i think these are called snorr washers? one side has what looks like a locking roughness to mate against the plates. does that make any sense? they torqued fine to me, but i'll crawl back under and check.

the axle kits did come with bolts i could have used but no washers. the bolts were the 12 point pattern and since i didn't have the tool, opted not to use them at this point in time. am i screwwwwwwwwed now?
ryan

Well, maybe someone could confirm this (in other words, don't torque them to 60lbs until you know for sure :)), but I thought all the 4-bolt CVs have M10 bolts requiring the higher torque.

My tech. info. agrees with what Colin says. 74 or 4-screw style axle uses M10 screws.

So how can M8 screws be inserted into trans. drive flanges that are supposed to accept M10 screws? :confused:

kevin,
good question. i'm just assuming that the bolts i'm reusing are m8's because i measured their diameter to be 8 mm. next chance, i'll measure the ones that came with the kit.
ryan

Mine are 8mm allen bolts. I also have 4 and two roll pins. Mine have "washers" that span between two bolts? Not sure if that makes since because I don't know what they're called. Then on top of those I have lock washers as you described. I was missing one, so it's an american style lock washer with the slip cut in it.

Interesting, because I read that last thread, too. So, I re-torqued them the other day. They were all still tight.

I haven’t yet had a problem w/ the bolts loosening. I’ve decided to replace all of my CV joints due to wear and age (& +100 HP) and have all new bolts for them. I drilled holes in the heads so I can safety wire them all, just for a little added protection/insurance. I’ll post pics when they are back in but it might be a month.

I have a question. My CV bolts are torqued to the 60 lb. spec. I have new gaskets under them. But, the wheel end of the joint is slinging grease all over the place. Why? Where is it coming from? What should I do to stop this mess?

thanks,
Troy

My old cv's had little paper like gaskets which disintegrated during removal. The kit didn't have any to replace with...are they absolutely necessary? I hope not. Good grief...will this job ever be done?!
Ryan

bigchill,
I think they are important. Othewise they will sling grease all over your wheels, etc. Oh, wait. I have gaskets and I still get grease all over.
Somebody help.
Troy

JTO, did you clean the old gasket material off REALLY well? If not, they won't seel-up.

BTW, I have one gasket missing (got done and saw it sitting there), man was I p1ssed! Never had any grease fly out. But, I cleaned the surface perfectly. I noticed that my old gaskets were black and so it was very difficult to tell if the end was clean or not.

ok,
checked the bolts tonight after several days of driving. all still there. i torqued them to 31 originally, but tonight torqued them to 34, as it mentions in Wayne's book.

the 12 point bolts that came with the axles are 8 mm as well...as measured. so, i guess they're m8's.

also, i didn't find evidence that any grease has slung out...at least not yet. i don't recall a mention of these gaskets in wayne's book, so i was mildly surprised to see them or what was left of them at least.

tip to the uninitiated: if you're removing the entire axle, it doesn't matter which side (inside or outside) that you reove first, BUT - you would be highly advised when reassembling to attach the outside cv to the wheel before doing the inside at the transmission stub. it has to do with getting the buggers to line up and seat easily.
ryan

Couple different kinds of lock washers you guys can use for your socket head CV axle cap screws.

Split locking type specifically intended for socket head/cheese head cap screws:

"Spring Washers for Socket-Head Cap Screws "
http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/framework.asp?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=2999&CtlgEd ition=109

Belleville serrated (both sides) for socket head/cheese head cap screws:

"Serrated (Both Sides) for Socket Head Cap Screws "
http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/loadpage.asp?pagenum=3001&catnum=109&fam=washers&p pe=1&ppr=1&psm=1&psl=0

The Belleville washers are said to "have a higher load capacity than standard lock and wave washers." I guess that's why Porsche uses them on the CV screws and alignment eccentrics for the rear suspension of the 911.

Kevin,
Thanks for the link...judging from the pics, I have the serrated belleville variety, but only serrated on one side. The plate thing that 'ties two bolts together' was likewise serrated and I mated these two surfaces together guessing it's a stronger lock.
Ryan

McMaster rocks.

They even have the drilled head screws, but the jerkies don't have 'em in metric! Dang!

http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/loadpage.asp?pagenum=2901&catnum=109&fam=scs&ppe=1 &ppr=1&psm=2&psl=0

No biggie though. If you want to, you can drill them like surflvr Ryan did.

Don't know if mine are Mcmaster or not, but they are the hex-key variety.
Ryan

Further tip/correction for "uninitiated": PP CV gaskets are sticky back, makes life easy. Just did CV work for the first time, and there are earlier threads indicating the gaskets slip out at installation and maybe aren't worth the bother -- not so with PP gaskets. Per recommendations on prior thread, I cleaned all joint surfaces well. I used three CV screws on the open flanges as guide pins to correctly position the gaskets. As follows: partially insert screws evenly spaced on open flange(s), peel paper off stickyback, locate gasket sticky side on open flange, check other holes are clear too, press gasket home, remove temporary guide screws and proceed with half shaft installation.