Engine Cover Unlatches

FranksPlace2 · 09-04-2003, 08:37 AM

I recently had some body work done my car and now the lid frequently unlatches. It feels tight when I close it. The body shop denies all responsibility.

Could the rod need to be replaced? How much should the blade clamp stick out? How do I adjust it?

Thanks for your help.

Frank

k9handler · 09-04-2003, 08:48 AM

it's a simple cable adjustment and all you need is some needle nose pliers and a screwdriver. The cable should be tight and the latch should be visible through the opening at the end...sorry but that's about the best way I can describe it.

Jdub · 10:57 AM

You'll notice, by pulling on the cable, that a "half moon" appears in the circle into which the lid-side male piece goes.

That half-moon, or wedge, needs to be as far in as it can go into the circle in order to fully engage the male piece. To do this, unhook the cable and WD-40 the wedge area so that it comes out as far as it can. (At this time, also use some spraycan-type grease at both ends of the cable tube and pull that cable back and forth to move the grease into the tube.) Clean out the old grease in the circle/wedga area as well BTW. Then, reclamp the cable to the wedge when you know the wedge is fully in the circle.

For the male piece, be sure the locknut is tight. Often the locknut at the lid will loosen, allowing the male piece to move sideways and disengage. You might also adjust the male piece up and down, but if it worked at its current "height" there is no reason to think it shouldn't now. Allthesame, experiment if all of the above does not work out for you.

Really is embarassing to have some folks look at you like an idiot when you don't know your expensive Porsche's lid is flailing about in back. Happened to me and that's how I know how to adjust this bad boy.

Best of luck,
John

EDIT: Finally, ALWAYS shut your lid by placing the palm of the hand flat on the lid's grille, never the metal of the lid. Give it a sharp downward push. You can always tell the rookies by the dents at the bottom, just above the latch.

Paul Valcourt · 09-04-2003, 01:09 PM

I had the same thing happen to mine. After getting the car back from the body shop the engine lid would pop up while driving. All it that was needed to correct it was to adjust the nut behind the pull handle so it allowed a little more slack in the cable. I'm sure this will take care of your problem.

FranksPlace2 · 09-05-2003, 06:41 AM

Thanks, Paul & John. This board comes through again!

Frank

FranksPlace2 · 09-29-2003, 05:42 AM

Here's an update.

The rod was misaligned so it hit the striker plate at between 10:00 and 12:00. Also the wedge was not all the way in. I fixed both of those and the problem got worse.

I notice when I closed the lid slowly with my fingertips, there was no clunk sound of the wedge engaging. Also the handle in the door sill was a hair trigger that opened the hood with a small movement.

I was not able to unscrew the rod to make it longer because of the spring and age. So I put some spacers under the rod base making it less than 1/16 in longer.

It works great now!

Frank

Jdub · 09-29-2003, 08:11 AM

Frank:

If it works great now, ignore this advice. But if your handle is giving hair-trigger openings then you need more slack in the cable that sits inside the tube. Any pull on the wire when seated means the wedge may not be in the hole as far as it can be.

Also consider that the male end can be lengthend or shortened as needed. You might loosen the lock nut hidden in that spiral spring and try screwing the male portion in or out of its housing for optimal fit.

John

FranksPlace2 · 09-29-2003, 09:53 AM

John,

The hair trigger went away when I added the spacers. Two were too many so I went with one under each bolt. Now it feels right when I pull the handle.

I didn't realize that device on the rod where the spring sits was a lock nut. That's why I couldn't unscrew the rod.

Thanks again for your help.

Frank