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Carrera Chain Tensioners

Ok, probably a stupid question, but I'm finally going to install the upgrade this weekend (I've had the kit for about 6 months).
If I keep the chain tight (the goal, of course) will I need to re-time my car? I don't have the book in front of me, but I don't remember if you have to remove the distributor, or not.

Any other helpful hints from those who have done it? Uhhm, I mean the upgrade, of course!

I will do a search, too, but need to know if I will need to get a new timing light before I start. Mine doesn't have an advance/tetard function.

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Old 11-10-2003, 12:12 PM
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I was able to change the oil line with the dist still in the block, with the cap off, took a while though, so you should be fine without the timing light for now.

I wasn't able to get a clamp on the idler arms while pulling the old tensioners out, used a few high power bungee cords on the arm, secured to the lower body. Kept the arms right in place.

Get some gasket remover on the housings when you pull off the covers, sometime it takes a while for the stuff to get old gaskets off easy.
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Old 11-10-2003, 12:21 PM
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WIRE THE CHAINS IN PLACE!!! Leave them no choice but to stay put. Some powerful spring forces are at work, trying to make the sprockets jump a tooth. Don't even give them a chance.

If you remove and reinstall the distributor, then you'll need to retime the ignition. As far as timing the cams goes, you shouldn't need to do this, but it would not hurt. It would also verify whether you have skipped a tooth, at lest on the passenger-side sprocket.
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Old 11-10-2003, 12:24 PM
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No re-timing necessary if you don't let the chain go slack during the procedure.
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Old 11-10-2003, 12:25 PM
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So, it sounds like I don't have to remove the distributor? So, as long as I'm careful and make sure the chain doesn't slip, then I should just be able to put it back together and fire it up?
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"I understand that you want to drive fast, it's just that I want to go faster!" Move ova please

Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 11-10-2003, 12:37 PM
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Short answer: Yep.
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:55 PM
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I would suggest getting the new style idlers while in there instead of using the spacer. Also pre-bleed the tens and I wouldn't let them slam into place against the idlers. I use a giant screw driver blade to gently release the plunger......Ron
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Old 11-10-2003, 05:37 PM
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Sorry, my short answer would be nope.

You need to remove the distributor in order to install the new cam oil line. There's just not enough room to do it without pulling the dizzy out...

-Wayne
Old 11-10-2003, 06:04 PM
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Eerg! That's not what I wanted to hear. And from our Host no less!

Ok, I'll swing by Sears some time this week and pick up a better timing light. Man, the neighbors are going to love the 5K RPM noise!
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"I understand that you want to drive fast, it's just that I want to go faster!" Move ova please

Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 11-10-2003, 06:10 PM
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If you use these along with the Hydo tensioners it will be fail safe. Steve

Old 11-10-2003, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SteveStromberg
If you use these along with the Hydo tensioners it will be fail safe. Steve

Hey Steve,
I thought the hyd tens wouldn't completely fail because of the inner spring.. chain noise but not a slammed valve.....Ron

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Old 11-10-2003, 07:25 PM
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