It's Engine Rebuild Time!
 

Well having discovered that cylinder #5 produces only 60 lbs of compression and has 100% leakdown (even after backing off the rocker arms and performing the B-12 chemtool treatment on the valves and pistons) I have concluded that I can't put off the engine rebuild any longer. The 3.2 gave me and the previous owners 133,000 miles of pleasure. I've never actually rebuilt a 911 engine before, so be prepared for plenty questions both here and on the engine rebuild board!

A year ago, and one week from today, a group of friends from this BBS helped me pull the motor from the 'Bomber. That winter re-build was the most mechanical fun I've had in years!
This winter, I hope to be assisting another local friend with his rebuild. More fun (I hope).
Keep us posted, Kurt.

Sounds like alot of fun. I'm in the middle of a rebuilt right now.I'm trying to find all the right pieces for it. Get wayne's book it'll help out ALOT.

I already have both Wayne's 101 Projects and Rebuild Book along with the Bentley Manual and Bruce Andersons book. As for putting together the list of parts, tools and sealers I am using Wayne's Rebuild Wizard and I have to say that it is one hell of a program for taking all the guess work out of what I need for my rebuild

Ya the wizard really does help out alot. I'm running into problems with hard engine parts though. I need either lots of machinework on my existing case or a new case and new P&C's. Both are basicly NLA for a 2.4L engine and are hard to come by in good condition. You should be fine with the 3.2 but the 2.4 is another beast entirely.

You lucky bas...guy! My 'other half' won't approve my rebuild dollars (read: aggressive cams, pistons, enhancements, etc.) unless I can provide leakdown/compression documentation. I never should have taught her about those things! :(

Maybe a little sabotage...;)
Ryan

LOL! That's the one problem with my g/f .. can't slip anything automotive past her, but at least she endures my rabid enthusiasim for porsches:)

Ryan,
A conviently disconnected alternator bulb + broken belt does wonders.. don't ask how I know :(

You guys impress the hell out of me. But I hope I'm not in your shoes for a while.

133t,

Yep I can just envision this scenario: "Honey, I removed the remains of the broken belt and, well, since I was already in there thought that it would be best to go ahead and open her up and inspect the cams and pistons..." :D I'd find myself looking for a new address...probably the motorhome I have pictured in my current 'BigBigDrag' thread! (shameless thread plug)
Ryan

You might want to save the kudos until I have the engine back in and running! To be honest I have given serious thought to trying to buy a low mile 3.2 engine just because I am worried I will end up investing thousands of dollars on my rebuild and screwing something up.

Are you looking for the 2.4 CIS, MFI or carbed P&Cs? When I was looking at my rebuild, I was concerned that I might need P&Cs for my CIS 73. I already knew the CIS P&C's were NLA. During my search, a fellow had some NOS ones for sale. Fortunately, I didn't need them when rebuild time rolled around.

I would suggest you keep an eye open for NOS in the want ads here, rennlist and :eek: e-bay to see if you can get what you need.

Let me comment here for a sec...

There's one thing I didn't really emphasize enough in the book, that people are beginning to realize after reading it. The cost of a 3.2 rebuild is about $8K (when you include the cost of pistons and cylinders). The cost of a 2.2 rebuild is also about $8K (when you include the cost of all the machine work). Bottomline is that the cost of the rebuild is about $8K no matter which engine you own ($6K if you do all the assembly yourself, although recent exchange rate moves are increasing the prices of many of the parts).

There really is no excuse for squeezing more power out of your engine at rebuild time - unless your car is an 'S' or a bone-stock concours winner, more horses under the decklid will always increase resale value, and increase the smile on your face. Heck, you're paying $8K for a rebuild - it really doesn't cost any more to replace 'T' components with 'S' components (in many cases).

Bottomline? Go for as much HP increase as you can stomach with the parts that you have...

-Wayne

Just wait until you see what we have in store - coming soon, the Suspension Wizard, Brake Wizard, Interior Wizard, etc...

-Wayne

Kurt, I know the feeling. I had my top end refreshed and when we were done, my wallet was almost to the point of a 3.0/3.2 conversion. The only thing I keep telling myself is that if I went that route, how likely would it be that I would be back a rebuild city in a few years?

My refreshed engine runs like a champ and I keep going out to look for the oil drips and there are NONE :cool: .

Shut up Wayne...shut up.....you had me at hello!!!

Cool deal! From now on Wayne...you're the Wiz! (Seinfeld episode just popped into head).

All these engine rebuilds, so little time. I have to say that I considered "S" components for my "T" rebuild. But, very few "T" components needed replacing, and with the cost of MFI parts...ouch. I opted for a higher compression 2.4L T. Now if I only can get my crank back from my mech.....oh well, no rush. I'm happy with the work so far...and the prices.

Wayne,

As one who took a different track, I beg to offer a second opinion.

While I totally agree with you on a total rebuild, folks like me faced a slightly different decision.

first, I do not have an unlimited budget and needed to do the best possible for the least total outlay.

My 2.4L CIS had worn valve guides on an engine with 116,000 miles. Prior to pulling the engine, I had no evidence of any bottom end issues.

Prior to starting, based on your booka nd other soruces, my rebuilding choices came down to:

1-Refresh the heads;
2-Refresh the heads, renew the rings;
3-Refresh the heads, new P&Cs; or
4-Total rebuild.

I pulled the engine and pulled the heads. After inspecting what can be seen, it seemed the cost effective approach was to do option 1 only. Truth be known, if I needed to do more than option 1 or 2, I would have been shopping for a 3.0 to replace the 2.4. The way I figured it, one I got to the point of pulling the case apart, I was in a place wihere the larger displacement engine would be the cost effective alternative.

Anyway my $0.02

Wayne and the rest of the BBS members,

I can't wait to see the other "online wizards"! You'll never know how much you and the kind folks on this BBS have helped me. My Porsche owning experience has been and continues to be fun and challenging at times. You guys always come through and help during the challenges and "Helga" (my car) takes care of the good times with fun driving. My family has been impressed with my new found "mechanic skills", but what they don't know is that I'm learning it all as I go from you folks. Thanks again!!!

Well I'm in the market for all those parts since my parts were in a really nasty car accident. It was bad enough that it crushed one of my cylinders into 4 pieces and the fins were broken off the other 5. I have a lead for a good set of 2.2E pistons and cylinders

My worst case scenario at this point is looking to be about 4-5K. I had to replace P&C's, my case is warped like a sheet of paper, I needed a new crank, oil pump and int. shaft. Granted I got alot of this very cheap from various places so I would add another 1k onto this for buying through normal channels

Ryan,
The broken belt coencided with a disintergrated windage screen. Ferous metal running through my engine is never a good thing. Ohhh and my better half understood quite well that broken cooling belts and metal chunks are not a good thing, but then again she's no stranger to being under the hood of a car

Kurt,
Do you know which Valve guides you'll be going with? How about Rod bolts?