Rebuild is done! (semi-long)

brawlins · 10-05-2003, 01:45 PM

I finally got my car back after a long time in the shop! It is really nice. My wrench even repainted the engine compartment and paintable parts - and cleaned everything spic-and-span. There was some difficulty. The engine had to be sent to the machine shop to pull out a broken stud and to put an insert on another bolt-hole. But the engine has had valve components, rings, seals, studs etc replaced or "refreshed" and a few other miscellaneous things done (like having a popoff valve put on and replacing hoses).

My wrench said that the piston wear was almost non-existent. He said original slight machine marks on the pistons were still there. This was the first rebuild on this engine. (167k miles!)

Here's the price breakdown:
Parts: $1481.18
Labor: $2275.00
Machine shop: $370.00
Tax: $88.87
"Discount": $200.00 (For keeping the car longer than promised)
Total: $4215.05

I'm guessing that about $300-400 of the total amount was for non-rebuild stuff, so the rebuild cost me about $3800 - and would have been about $3400 or $3500 if there had not been machine shop issues. Is this in line with what you guys have paid?

By the way, I am pleased with the handiwork. I don't have the talent to do the rebuild myself - and I see I could have saved a couple of thousand $$$ in labor had I been able to do it.

But I'm happy to have her back!

- Bill

brawlins · 10-05-2003, 01:46 PM

Oops - a mistake in my figures: It was $4015 after the "discount".

nostatic · nostatic's Garage

did he replace the head studs? That seems like a pretty low price for a rebuild...I'm assuming that was just top end?

brawlins · 10-06-2003, 03:57 AM

Head studs were replaced. It was top-end only. (Crankcase was not opened.)

Early_S_Man · 10-06-2003, 05:23 AM

Did he replace the Dilivar head studs with OEM steel on the bottom rows?

Elombard · 10-06-2003, 08:49 AM

Great news Mr. Brawlins. We missed you at the last AutoX. Get that puppy broke in so we can have some fun.

GB83SC · 10-06-2003, 08:57 AM

Hey Bill,
great to hear you have got the car back! Just in time for some cool dry air runs. Post some pics if you get a chance.

brawlins · 10-06-2003, 04:31 PM

I just called my wrench. He took a bunch of digital pix of the rebuild. I will post them as soon as I get them.

I did not ask what type of studs they were, but he said they were tougher than the originals. I will find out.

elombard and other Atlanta folks - I'd like to get together for a donut soon! Also, an early November swing through the North Georgia mountains??

- Bill

GB83SC · 10-06-2003, 04:39 PM

Bill,
I look forward to you posting them.
Thanks.

Wayne 962 · Wayne 962's Garage

You asked our opinions, so here it is... Sounds a bit pricey on the "parts" and "labor" sections. Also, the machine shop amount seems very low. My heads cost $895 or so for a complete valve job from Walt at Competition Engineering. That meant going over the entire head and re-grinding the seats, etc...

-Wayne

brawlins · 10-06-2003, 07:34 PM

The machine shop charge was for pulling out the broken stud and putting an insert into one of the bolt holes.
The head work was included in the other parts and labor categories, and it did include going over the head, regrinding, etc.

Here's a couple of part items from the invoice:
Engine kit: $530.00
Studs: $458.80
No other part item was over $100.
(Other items: Crank Seals, chain guides, oil return tubes)

I should have bought them from Wayne and company I guess, but my wrench will only warranty work when he procures the parts. This is normal I guess??

Emission · Emission's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by brawlins

I should have bought them from Wayne and company I guess, but my wrench will only warranty work when he procures the parts. This is normal I guess??

Along the same line - you don't bring your own cow with you to dinner at the steakhouse.