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Another steering wheel resto: From 914 to RSR

I have this dilemma about my RS: the steering wheel has a too thin rim. My fiancee has trouble with thin rims because she suffers from carpal canal syndrome, so I had to do something.
By now it shouldn't be a secret that the factory put 914 steering wheels in the '73 RS because it has a smaller diameter. However, some RSs and the RSR had a thicker rimmed wheel. How did they do that? by putting 2 layers of leather on the wheel (Baur Werks did that).
With that in mind, I decided to build my own RSR wheel. Starting from this:


(and it is a rotten, stinky wheel)

To this (taken from the web, can't remember where):



What's more, I'll put a twist on it, adding a 1" spacer to bring it closer to the driver.
So, you have a really stinky wheel. First you take the leather off. Do that outside, or your wife will hate you. It's amazing the stench of that 30-year-old leather when you take it off. You end up with this:



Of course, the spokes are rusty, the paint's flaking, and you want to put a spacer on the hub. So you drill some rivets out (9 in total):









Then you strip the flaking paint off, sand the rust away, prime the wheel. You don't paint now. First layer of black after the first layer of leather, finishin layers after the 2nd layer of leather:


Old 10-26-2003, 06:48 AM
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Probable a dumb question, but why not use tape to build it up like they use on golf club grips?
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Old 10-26-2003, 06:52 AM
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Of course, I want the small horn button, for that racy look
So You search Ebay some more, and find a sorry looking horn button, but not cracked. You take it apart (shown with the new foam pad to replace the crumbled one under the leather):



You treat the leather to a lot of leather soffener, and let it soak in:



And then you put the puzzle back together:







I decided to leave the chrome ring alone, despite the chrome slightly flaking off. I was too scared to let it out of my sight, and the worn areas add patina to the button.
I'll update as I do the job. This is real time web.
Old 10-26-2003, 06:55 AM
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Paul,
I want to do it correctly (i.e. as the factory did). Besides, it is very hard to build it up under the leather while keeping the outer surface smooth.
Not that you'd understand with this in your sig: "SCWDP-Forward Observer"


Old 10-26-2003, 06:58 AM
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George-
Will any old 914 wheel work as a donor, or do you need one form a particular year or model?
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:32 PM
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The foam grip 914 wheel also works well for this conversion - just leave the grip alone, cover it with a leather grip, find an early 911 or 912 horn button, modify the back of the hub for a 911, and you have a 914-6 GT replica steering wheel much like George's. That's what I have.
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Old 10-26-2003, 04:51 PM
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Randy-
Is it a big deal to modify the back of the hub? Will a '69-'73 911 horn pad fit?
-Scott
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Old 10-26-2003, 05:08 PM
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Why not a quick release hub for adding space?

As far as which 914 wheel, the 70-71 fits the early 911 spline, but up to exactly which year I'm not sure. Maybe they all fit, but there are other differences that make the 70-71 a good choice.
Old 10-26-2003, 05:19 PM
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Where did you get the leather sewn on? I need to get my leather replaced on my 67 steering wheel.

Mike
Old 10-30-2003, 04:09 PM
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Mike-
A.G.L.A. in Florida sells leather kits for steering wheels, and will also recover you wheel. They advertise in Excelence.
-Scott
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:38 PM
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Scott,
Actually the 914 splines are the same, at least on the 10 or so wheels I have done.
Mike, I sew the lather myself. Buy it in half-hides, cut it to shape and adjust as I sew.

Old 10-30-2003, 08:54 PM
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GeorgeK,

I have the leaher skin from AGLA. They wanted $250.00 to sew it on because I told them it had to be "original". Would you want to sew mine on for me?

Mike
Old 10-31-2003, 03:24 AM
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George,

Another impressive photo/technical thread! I always like to see what you're up to.
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Old 10-31-2003, 05:17 AM
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Nice work. George
Old 10-31-2003, 06:49 AM
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You have to remove the plastic backing of the 914 wheel correct? At least mine has plastic that keeps it from fitting on the column.
Old 10-31-2003, 07:23 AM
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Jeremy, yes. Then you fit your own blinker cancel tab.
Mike, I know why they charge 250$ for doing it. It is a labor intensive job to have it fit perfectly, easily 5-6 hours. I wouldn't do it for less, plus I can't guarantee it will fit perfect first time. I have had to take the whole cover off a few times because there were some stubborn folds near the spokes. So if you have to take it off and restart from scratch, it gets quickly expensive.
All considered, 250$ is not too much, but it would have to be PERFECT for that price, that means thinned leather on the spokes, at the bottom junction, correct sewing pattern on the spokes, and NO FOLDS (that is the hardest part).
Old 10-31-2003, 07:40 AM
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I may give a try...

Mike

Old 10-31-2003, 05:12 PM
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