rebuilding non pressure fed chain tensioners

[safe]

I just bought some rebuild kits for my tensioners. Does anybody have a guide for the rebuild process?

[john walker's workshop]

copied from a previous post:

bleeding them of air when you're done is the most important thing. actually, a more important thing is never look directly down at the spring loaded piston when removing or installing the snap ring that secures it into the tensioner body. it can pop out and get you in the eye.

clamp unit in a vise by the lower mounting. remove top snap ring and collar under it. remove bolt in the side of the body. grab the inner raised collar of the aluminum disc with small pliers and pull up and out. swab out oil under it so you can see the top of the piston and the snap ring that holds it in. the piston is depressed a tad so the ring can be removed. it's stiff and must be rotated so one end is in the notch, so a awl or pocket screwdriver can be inserted in the notch to pry the ring out used. be patient, and keep your eyes away. when the ring is off, turn the unit upside down and remove the piston. usually the check ball, seat and springs come out with it. pay attention to their order. fish the very last piece out of the bottom of the bore. clean everything well. inspect piston and bore for excessive scoring. assemble the misc pieces onto the main spring, lower the piston over the stack, turn the stack upside down and lower the tensioner body onto the stack. hold with thumb and put it back in the vise. start the inner snap ring into the groove on one side with a small screwdriver and hold it there. with another small screwdriver, press the other side down until it seats. (may take some cursing to get it in). don't let go of the piston while you do this. keep your eyes away. tilt the body so the side bolt hole is angled up a bit. install bolt into the side of the body loosely. fill the reservoir with bubble-free oil. insert a key tag wire into one of the holes in the top of the piston body to move the check ball off it's seat. slowly pump the piston to bleed out the air. the idea is to go slow so you don't aerate the oil. refill if needed. when it has no squishy play you're done. put new o rings inside and outside the aluminum disc. open the side bleeder bolt until you see the bleed hloe in the threads. push the disc down into the oil reservoir and let the air go out the bleeder. tighten bleeder. install small spring, cap and snap ring and you're done.


__________________

[safe]

Thanks John.
I did a search but I could not find any info on this.