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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: SE PA
Posts: 3,188
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I'm having problems with the left-right alignment of my pedal cluster. No matter what I do, something rubs. When I first got the car, the cluster was offset too far to the right, and the throttle bell crank was interfering with the sheet metal of the tunnel. Here's a pic from back then:
![]() When my mechanic repaired the rusty floor pan under the pedals, he relocated the cluster slightly to the left to avoid that interference. I'm afraid he went a bit too far, though. As you can see in this picture, both the throttle cable clevis and the clutch cable clevis are rubbing on the inside of the tunnel (A & B): ![]() Here's an end-on view showing where some of the sheet metal was bent back to clear the bellcrank originally. Looking at the clearance at C & D, how far off is it? ![]() And here's a pic of the clutch cable clevis from the access hole in the tunnel. It rubs at E, and the little clip pops off when it hits the tunnel wall. The one drawing in the shop manual shows more like 1/2" of clearance for the clutch cabel clevis from the tunnel. Fat chance! ![]() With the repaired floor underneath and the altered tunnel, I don't have any good reference points. The brake pedal is centered on the master cylinder, but I guess that's not good enough. Can someone tell me exactly WHERE the cluster is supposed to be located? Should I just hack the damn tunnel with a body saw or is there some way to fit it so everything has good clearance. Thanks, -Jon |
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One other possibility is that the throttle bellcrank might be bent slightly to the right--which would have caused the initial interference.
Problem is, I have no way of knowing. I doubt there is a throttle bellcrank dimensional reference in the specs booklet. ![]() So if any of you see anything that looks out of place, please let me know. |
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Unoffended by naked girls
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FWIW, my throttle bellcrank was bent slightly to the right. It's not a real sturdy part. I had to tack weld mine to the shaft, as it had loosened there....
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Dan 1969 911T (sold) 2008 FXDL www.labreaprecision.com www.concealedcarrymidwest.com |
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Does mine look bent? Unfortunately it looks like if I bent it back, the interference between the throttle cable and the tunnel would get worse.
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Near Albuquerque, New Mexico
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I had the exact same problem, so I bought a rebuild kit from our host and during the rebuild found that the lever where the gas pedal lever pivots on has a tiny tack weld to hold it to the shaft. The weld was broke there which allowed it to have side play. If things are correct you should have basically no side play.
Once it was rebuilt, welded up and reinstalled, things worked nicely again This pic might help some, might not... ![]()
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-Rickeolis- 1986 Corvette |
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I had pretty much the same problem with my 77. I probably had the cluster out three times trying to figure it out. I eventually tired of trying to find the "correct" solution. I took a pair of channel lock pliers, grabbed the sheet metal between points A and B in your one picture, and pulled. No more rubbing. Of course, you first need to make sure that there's nothing truly wrong mechanically.
Ed Cavalier 77 911 Targa |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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If your throttle stop (on the floorboard) is not properly adjusted, that arm bends VERY easily to the right. The pedal must stop before pressure is applied to that linkage. When I got my car, it didn't have a floorboard and and the linkage was way out of whack.
I would align the cluster so that the clutch clevis has clearance and then "adjust" the throttle arm so it clears. If your floorboard stop is adjusted properly it shouldn't be a problem again. Pete |
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Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,391
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Same problem on my 65 912. I found a used cluster at Hersey, rebuilt it with new bushings and now the throttle is aligned and smooth.
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MikeČ 1985 M491 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cupertino, CA
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Jon - I'm in the middle of reassembling the pedal cluster in my '72T and took a quick picture. I've got a plastic spacer (about 1/2" long) on the clutch actuation shaft. It looks like you've got the same clutch shaft with the straight lever arm - are you missing this spacer?
![]() Ken
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Go Bears! 74 Carrera Clone with 3.6 Vram - It Runs! |
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Well, I'll be damned--a missing spacer! I knew those German engineers would have an elegant solution.
![]() Thanks everyone for the advice and pics. Believe it or not, I do have the metal bushings, so it was rebuilt at some point. I think I'm going to pull it and re-do anyway, especially if I'm missing a piece. Edit 1: The plot thickens. Looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the non-offset clutch actuation shaft was only on '74-'77 911s. My car has the early cluster with the two piece clutch pedal, but some considerate individual seems to have rebuilt it using the non-offset later shaft. Bummer. So it looks like I'm pulling the whole thing apart anyway. Ken, are you sure your pedal cluster is original? According to the parts manual, the non-offset clutch actuation shaft never had the concentric spring--it had the straight spring on the clutch pedal end of the cluster. I can see on yours the spring looks a bit stretched. Edit 2: Now that I know what the problem is, of course it's been covered before: Problem with pedal box rebuild Edit 3: Guess how much the correct early shaft (911.423.027.00) costs? $92.27 ![]() Last edited by RallyJon; 11-03-2003 at 06:49 PM.. |
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Not sure if my pedal cluster is original or not . . . I checked again in PET and the spacer that I had to buy from Pelican (911-423-219-03) was listed for the '72 pedal cluster. I don't know what it all means, but it seemed to work okay in my car before I tore it all apart.
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Go Bears! 74 Carrera Clone with 3.6 Vram - It Runs! |
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