Whew, I've learned all too well that 250 is too damn hot. The 911 technical manual says the top engine temp is 266, so 250 is crazy hot. You've got some other issue going on there, but maybe you've nailed it, who knows. I put together some pretty complete heat-related threads if you're looking for possible problems.

I've had an idea of stacking cool collars on top of each other. I figure if one can drop my engine temps 10 degrees, then 2 MUST be able to drop it 20 degrees! :p I'm pretty embarassed to say that I actually own one of these and have it currently installed in my car :rolleyes:

Matt
Don't be embarrassed it dress's up the engine compartment and costs less than powdercoating the oil filter.

Peter

I think it's worth firing up the time machine once more.....

Yass, here's the good Herr Doktor and his devoted son, getting ready to install some Cool Collars on the first 356's to come out of Gmund......

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1068004534.jpg

I too, tried the cool collar, but I have a 16" neck, and found it difficult to breathe.

My solution was to be re-routing the A/C ducting for it to provide supplementary cooling medium to the cool-collar, the efficacy of same being boosted thereby, leading to enhanced temperature control of the motor oil.
Under the motto "to kill two flies in one swap" I am now considering ways in which to employ the A/C in a secundary role of providing boost for a dedicated turbo device, providing the engine with free additional power, but I've so far been unable to apply the necessary know-how.
Until then, I'm condemned to driving my car only at night in the winter, when power is at a natural high and without any cooling problems being associated. Gets cold, though.

Re: How I Lowered My Oil Temp 40 Degrees in 90 min.
 

I can't believe that no member in this long thread of posts has chastised this young man for his excessive speed. He could have poked someone's eye out! Not to mention that he was breaking THE LAW.

I know you guys are just poking fun at the cool collar in jest, and that's o.k. by me.

But the cool collar is not and never was designed or intended to be the "end-all" oil temp reducer.

It is merely a small supplementry link in the oil cooling system. In a sound operating 911 engine it realistically can only help maybe 1% in additional cooling capacity, but when used in conjunction with other components as part of a "system" as the original thread illustrates, it can be a viable addition to the oil cooling of your 911 engine.

I have one on my 911, along with heet-sheets and a Carrera front fender oil cooler...all parts of my overall oil cooling "system"

cheers !!

Here's what i say to your "law" :rolleyes:

"Yeah, that's right, i'm only 20"

say no more.....http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/shake.gif http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/lol2.gif

My temp gauge has no numbers on it. I bet some of you have seen this type :D Does anyone know what temp the motor is running when the gauge is, say... dead center horizontal? and what temp is the red too hot zone?

The temp guage does have numbers in deg. C, but you need to look way to the side to see them. Here is a pic from an older thread:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...ads/gaugr2.jpg

Tom

120 degrees Celsius is turn-it-off-and-let-it-cool-down time.

Look into past posts...we've gone over this before
The tick marks going up are:
60 degC ( 140 degF)...end of white block
90 degC ( 194 degF)...first white line
120 degC ( 248 degF)..next white line
150 degC ( 302 degF)...bottom of red block

To which I had said:
This can be "approximated" by 150/200/250/300 degF...no need to buy $ for numerical gauges !!

--Wil Ferch

Wait a second... that's not my gauge... do the same rules apply to mine if I imagine those lines? If so, 2/3rds is where she's too hot? So in the center is really hotter than I would like to be? It gets to the center when I'm running her hard. Or if I get stuck in traffic, stopped for like 15 or 20 minutes. Most of the time it's a little above or at the 1/3rd level. The reason I'm confused is because I have a cylinder head gauge that always reads between 225 and 250. The wire is connected to a spark plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1068158052.jpg

Thanks guys...

Your guage also has calibration markings on the side, there just aren't any in the middle of the range. On my old guage that looked like yours, the top line on the lower white "box" was 60 deg celsius and the bottom of the orange area was 150 celsius. I assumed based on this that the middle of the operating area was about 105c or 220f. This was close to accurate, on the old guage I ran just below the midpoint when fully warm and when I switched to a nubered guage it read around 195 or 200.