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Remove any waxes or protective coatings to the paint?
-OR- Apply waxes or protective coatings to the paint?
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Past: 04 Anniversary 911 #0895, 82 911 SC, 88 Signature Series Carrera, 88 911 Turbo Cab, 73 911T, 63 356B, 06 Cayenne |
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Make sure it's clean....when removing use a heat gun. The residue around the edges comes off with acetone.
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But that wasn't his question.
What I do is remove the wax, figuring that all it can do is keep the decal (race numbers or whatever) from adhering as well as possible. Nor is the wax needed to protect the paint, since a layer of vinyl will do that far better than wax ever will. Be aware, though, that you'll eventually see ghosts of the numbers or decals if you ever remove them, from the sun having faded the paint around them. Which goes to show just how well the vinyl layer protects the finish... Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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To add to this--what can/can't you do AFTER application of decal. How do you wax around it?
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1980 911SC Targa 3.6L |
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My car is white, and I am considering some decals. Since my car is garaged 90% of the time, I am not concerned with ghosting. Back in high school I had a bra on a red car (parked in the sun all day long). Wow... talk about fading... ![]()
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this car only comes out when its time to race ....im wanting to go from magnetic number to decals....same style though
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Past: 04 Anniversary 911 #0895, 82 911 SC, 88 Signature Series Carrera, 88 911 Turbo Cab, 73 911T, 63 356B, 06 Cayenne |
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My magnetic numbers kept blowing off, which is why I went to vinyl stick-ons. As for the question of how to wax around 'em, don't. Wax around, on and over them. Wax will only do them good.
Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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Are you talking stock paint, or repaint? It makes a diference.
Good condition factory job, remove all wax and cleaners, clean with isopropyl alcohol, then apply decal. If it is a repaint, I highly suggest a thin coat of wax. At first the decal won't stick and you may have to massage it a bit, and let the adhesive cure a bit. This is a side business for me and I have had to deal with many types of cars. The adhesive can be really agressive to a repaint and the odds of it pulling off paint in removal is high. If your magnetics fly off at high speed, look at the edges and see if they have been beveled. It helps quite a bit. |
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You could also consider putting your numbers on your rear quarter-windows. It's a good solution for daily driver's that get taken to the track, you can fit 7" high three digit numbers on there... never tried a two digit, but obviously bigger would fit. The glass never seems to have any noticeable "ghosts" or anything like that once you remove them, especially if you use a good adhesive remover/glass cleaner. Just a thought... unless you're really going for the track car look.
Andrew
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Or if you use magnetic circles with the number inside the circle, you could tape the leading edge, and they will never blow off, even at 136 MPH (which is the absolute top speed of a 911SC).
I have used this system (with a 4" long duct tape on the leading edge) for 20 years now, and never had a magnetic number shield come off. Try it, you'll like it.........Andras
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Quote:
That stuff can easily pull off paint, especially repaints. Much safer to use racer's tape or low-tack painter's tape. It will still keep the number on, and hopefully leave the paint behind.
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How on earth can vinyl numbers or decals possibly "pull off paint," assuming you use a bit of temp from a heat gun to soften them?
Stephan
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side note:
When putting those vinyl stickers on, it's wise to make/use a spray-on "positioning" solution (usually slightly soapy water with alcohol to aid evap.), and a rubber squeeqie. That way you can get it exactly where you want it without "peeling and re-sticking", and no air bubbles. |
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I use shelf paper (low tack) and put that and numbers on as needed. Doesn't blow off, comes off easily when you want it to and is cheap. I buy numbers by the 10 pack to put on the paper. Be different, get the flowered pattern ![]() |
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Instead of acetone, I've used 'Right-off' or 'GrafixGone' (from decal supply house) goof-off or prep-sol.
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If you heat up the numbers a bit, they damn near fall off. If that is going to separate your paint from the primer, somebody didn't bother to spray a sealer layer.
Stephan
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Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
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Guys, guys, guys,
I've been doing this for over 20 years, and the paint is still on there. Have NEVER had a problem with duct tape or racer's tape pulling anything but dust off the paint. Now, you really shouldn't leave it on there past the weekend that you're at the track, you should use only small amounts, as I have stated (about 4" long), and you might even try painter's blue tape. Any tape, in fact, will keep the leading edge (you do know which is the leading edge, no?) from lifting due to high-speed air from getting under the magnetic circle. Questions?
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1983 911SC Chocolate Kiss (Smokey Quartz Metallic) 1991 VFR750F 1982 VF750S Miata (wife's) Audi A6 Quattro (family) |
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I'm always putting/pulling decals on/off my race car for different events - every quide i've read says the same thing: wax the doors 3 times, apply soapy water, apply decal, squeegee out water, let dry to stick. This is what I do and i've nerver pulled any paint (repainted car too).
Cheers - Ryan
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Cheers, Ryan 1969 911E (historic racer) 911ST replica (tarmac rally) |
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I think my SC will go faster than 136. Perhaps I should get the Z-rated numbers.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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