Oil Level Sender Replacement. Tips and Gasket Question.

[qcwang]

Planning on replacing the oil level sender this or next weekend with my next oil change. Plan on following instuctions from 101 Projects. Seems very straight forward, but wanted to learn any tips or tricks that would be helpful.

Also, the new sender (purchased from our great host Pelican Parts) has a cork gasket. Any non-hardening sealant applied to the cork needed? A previous thread last year mentioned the use of Curil-T. Is this a this a special type of sealant? Other old threads mention an aftermarket rubber gasket. This better than cork?

Thanks!!

Quincy

[IROC]

Be very careful wiggling the sending unit out of the tank opening. My sending unit had two little plastic clips on it and I evidently knocked one of them off when I was getting the old sending unit out. The clip (unbeknownst to me) fell into the oil tank and was promptly sucked into the oil pump and distributed to various parts of the engine in the form of little pieces of broken plastic. Little pieces of broken plastic are very good at clogging oil passages.

That's why my '76 no longer has a 2.7 liter engine in it.... RIP.

[Leland Pate]

Just this past weekend, I noticed a small drip of oil coming from the oil level sender gasket. My sender works just fine so I'm just going to replace the gasket.

I am convinced that the myth that the oil level gauge is not accurate and not to be trusted stem from cars having their senders haphazardly removed at some point in their lifes. If a careless wrench removes the sender without care, it is very easy to bend the wire arm of the float. And after that, I bet it is almost impossible to get it accurate again. Luckily, both 911's I've owned have had very accurate oil level senders.

Just be very carefull to not bend the arm as it comes out. It is less important if you are not planning on reusing it.

Also, if I remember right, there is only one way it will come out. You have to snake it out of the hole, so to speak. So, when removing the old sender, take note of how it came out. When installing the new unit, it is simplyreverse of the removal.

All this may be included in Wayne's book, but also be sure not to over torque the securing nuts.

Good luck

[scottb]

Since I was a kid, I was told to always use some sort of non-hardening sealant on cork gaskets. In the old days, it was Permatex.

[Superman]

The oil that leaves the tank is not filtered before it enters the oil pump and the rest of the engine. So, any dirt you allow in there will be pumped through your main and rod bearings. Might be a good idea to pressure wash that oil tank under-fender area since it is probably packed with dirt. Prior to the operation.

Also, do not overtorque the nuts. They practically go on finger-tight. Senders that have been overtorqued are bent instead of flat, and they leak. Senders that have not been overtorqued are flat instead of bent, and probably do not leak.

[qcwang]

Thanks everyone for your advice. Much appreciated!!

Now its time to get my hands dirty!!

Quincy

[qcwang]

Well I got my hands dirty. Replaced the sender this afternoon. All back to normal after the oil change.
Thank you all for your advice! All of it was used.

Since the car is lowered, had to jack up the back about 6 inches to give me more space to work between the fender and tire. Besides all of your advice, that's the only $.02 I would add.

Cheers!!

[surflvr911sc]

Nobody said it b/c our cars are on jack stands w/ the tires off half the time.

Glad it went well!

[sammyg2]

Oh, and be sure to jack the car up in the rear and remove the rear wheel for better access