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speedman's Avatar
 
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powder coated door handles

does anyone have experience with painted or powder coated door handles. I want to powder coat mine as close of a match to Grand Prix white. What are my options

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Old 11-16-2003, 03:02 PM
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Well I can't adress the color but I just powder coated my door handles and a few other things yesterday with a Eastwood system and everything turned out great. The door handles look new.
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Old 11-16-2003, 04:43 PM
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84toy:

Was this the first time you have done powder coating? I am interested in how difficult it was to do using the Eastwood system. I have many things on my car that will require repainting. I am not sure but I thing the door handles were originally anodized black.
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Old 11-17-2003, 06:42 AM
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84toy were you using the cheaper HotCoat gun? How much powder was required to do your door handles or other parts?
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Old 11-17-2003, 07:31 AM
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I took mine in to be powder coated and wouldn't do it. 'THEY' said that they did it a couple times on old porsche's and the tumbler would not fit in after. I had to paint mine.
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Old 11-17-2003, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
and the tumbler would not fit in after
Errr...all you have to do is use high temp masking tape and the powder won't stick to it...
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:17 AM
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Also if you do a search here, there is at least one other thread on this subject. Apparently there are problems w/ oils, (from hands over the years), being embedded in the metal and causing the PC to flake off. Problem is unique to door handles. I guess that I will just paint mine when the time comes.

84toy, your handles look great, hopefully they will not have this problem. That previous thread just sticks in my mind.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:21 AM
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Yes, I used the Eastwood Hot-Coat system. It is a inexpensive system but works great. All you need is an old oven and a small air compressor and a way to glass bead or sand blast the parts. Since I have a machine shop, none of these are an issue. As far as the door lock cylinders not fitting, I machined a piece of aluminum and inserted it in the hole before I started. Even if you did not, you could scrape the paint off that area I'm sure. The hardest part I had was that the actual small handle that you pull to open the door would not ground well and I had a little trouble getting the powder to stick to it but they are fine. It took less than one can to do all the parts. If you use new paper down under the part before you start, you can re-use the powder that oversprays.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:31 AM
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Way cool guys...thanks for the tips. speeder is on the right track there...I seem to recall some info that suggested baking the parts before you ever spray them to help cook off some of the volatiles- especially in more porous aluminum pieces (like valve covers) to reduce the chance of fisheyes and the like.

speeder- do you recall what you paid ballpark to have all your engine sheet metal, etc. coated during your engine rebuild?

Thanks-
BG
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:35 PM
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What about using the Eastwood Black Oxide coating system? Black oxide might be more durable.
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:46 PM
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I have not heard of bonding issues because of hand oil and I would actually be surprised if bead blasting did not remove those residues. More frequently, someone uses a bead blaster or sand blaster without a filter and oil from the compressor embeds in the part during the prep process. You can tell if the part "fish eyes" during the bake process that oil was present. A 400 deg "pre bake" will usually take care of the oil issues, then re-bead blast
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:49 PM
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It's been my experience that the fish eye problem with door handles is sort of a hit or miss thing. I've done a lot of parts over the years with out any problems, but I dropped my handles off the same time I did Speeder's engine sheet metal and they fish eyed real bad. I'm sure they were cleaned well and fully disassembled (I sand blasted mine myself) and I know they were preheated. Sometimes they just don't coat well.
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Old 11-17-2003, 06:53 PM
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I thought powder coats are killed by UV rays?...
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Old 11-17-2003, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by stealthn
I thought powder coats are killed by UV rays?...
They are. But if you take care of your car and keep the parts treated with any UV protectant such as armorall or any simalar product they last quite a while.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BGCarrera32
speeder- do you recall what you paid ballpark to have all your engine sheet metal, etc. coated during your engine rebuild?

Thanks-
BG
I don't remember the exact cost, but it was cheap. Powdercoating is cheap, unless the part(s) need a lot of prep from the coater.

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Old 11-18-2003, 12:32 AM
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