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Question Shift Rod Bushing replacement

What is the easiest way to replace this .
I have done a search and I am still not very clear on this ?

I don't want to disconnect the coupler as I am scared I will put the shifter out of adjustment !

I will put the new ball cup one in is it possible to replace the Shift Rod Bushing as well without disconnecting the coupler at the back there?

Any Pics or instructions ?

Old 11-13-2003, 07:15 PM
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The cup and rod bushing can be replaced w/o disconnecting the coupler. But you need to remove the coupler to replace its bushings.

And it is the coupler bushings that make the biggest improvement!
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:55 PM
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You may as well replace the coupler bushings as well. You can usually get a kit that has all of them.

Getting the coupler aligned is pretty straight forward. Get a helper, it's much easier. Loosen the bolt on the coupler and put the shifter into neutral. Then, have your helper hold the shifter all the way to the left side of the car. At the same time, rotate the coupler all the way to the right side of the car and tighten the bolt. This should just about get you spot on. You may have to tweek it a bit by finding the *sweet spot* of the neutral plane.

Good luck.

-B
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:58 PM
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Chuck is correct. I did all of mine. I think I posted this before, but I recomend (maybe Chuck will agree/disagree) to run 914 coupler bushings to get rid of the slop.

Either way, if you replace the coupler bushings, I recomend marking the rod that comes out of the tranny with an exacto blade where it lines up with the coupler. You can get it VERY close when you put it back in. I used both the back edge and the "releif" opening of the coupler. This gave me a left and right rotation starting point, as well as back and forth when I put it back together.
The cup rod bushing's easy.
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:59 PM
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You can also scribe marks on the coupler and rod before disconnecting. This will get you at least close upon reassembly.

Edit:
Hey Chili, posting concurrently, same suggestion
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:59 PM
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Wow, Chuck and I are on the same page!
I'm honored! Heehe
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"I understand that you want to drive fast, it's just that I want to go faster!" Move ova please

Chad aka "Chili"
1974 Base coupe in Carrera outfit.
No A/C, no Sun Roof, no power windows. Fast and light, just the way I like it. (Sad to say, it's sold. But at least it remains with us on this board.)
My car http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/CHILI
1969 RSR Project. Heavy on the word PROJECT! No pictures yet. Keeps breaking lenses of cameras.
Old 11-13-2003, 08:00 PM
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Thanks guy's.

However I am confused as in Wayne's book, he suggests you put it in 1st gear when disconecting and adjusting the coupler ?

What is the difference ?

Does anyone know of any pics or diagrams of this process ?
Old 11-13-2003, 08:23 PM
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JK, the first gear trick works as well. I use far-left-neutral because I have a 1 -> 2 gear shift gate and if I adjust in first gear I tend to nick the gate.

-b
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Old 11-13-2003, 09:00 PM
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When you reconnect your shift coupler you probably will find it not quite right. Just leave the cover off and have your wrenches handy.

I just did mine a month or so ago and it took 4 or 5 adjustments to get it right.

The first time I connected it I didn't even have reverse at all.
It is really no biggie. Just make small adjustments and you will get it right.

When I finally got mine right it ended up being better than before.
Originally when in 1st the shifter was so close to the ashtray that if it was open slightly my hand would hit it. Now I have plenty of clearance and all of the shifts are a little closer to me.

The shifting improvement with the new bushings is well worth the effort.
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Old 11-14-2003, 02:38 AM
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It takes some effort and some creativity with normal tools to install new coupler bushings. If you haven't done some u-joints on cars with driveshafts, buy a new coupler and get the job done in minutes. It's not that much more money.
Old 11-14-2003, 06:33 AM
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I used a carriage bolt Used the threaded end to drive out the pin and the head to get the old bushings out. One tip, though, find a scrap piece of 2x4, drill a hole in it with a little bit larger diameter than the pin. Then, set the coupler on the wood with the pin over the hole and drive the pin out.
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Old 11-14-2003, 06:46 AM
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I second the approach on the PP tech articles list, ie. same as bb80sc's comments. Didn't need a helper- used left foot to push shifter to left while kneeling in the tunnel area. I tried Wayne's (book's) recomendation with scribing etc. in 1st and the shift linkage was way way out. Probably due to different stack up of tolerances with new bushing & new coupler. Note the recommendation in other threads to heat up the new center shift rod bushing to make it pliable for insertion. Not a difficult job at all - and well worth it.
good luck
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Old 11-14-2003, 11:34 AM
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O.K.

On the weekend I put the new ball cup bushing in and replaced the Shift Rod Bushing as well , no problem !

I also put a new clutch pedal spring on as it was missing when I bought the car. Only later to find out it was a spring was for a Left hand drive car rather than a right hand drive car (Problem = it was rubbing and catching on the accelerator linkage rod. I Itook it off and am waiting for the correct one now.

I also checked the coupler and saw it looked brand new, I recall the previous owner telling me this now.

However, I still experience the same problems , i.e
1) I need to shift in second before I can shift into first as it almost always crunches in first.
2) Shifting into second is hard most of the time i.e it clicks/pops in with a bit of force.
3) I get chutter when taking off in first or second gear.


Help please .

P.S I know that the transmission oil has not been changed for at least 7 years if at all.
Old 11-19-2003, 01:34 PM
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Wait, hold on, who sells coupler bushing? I thought you could only buy the whole thing?
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Old 11-19-2003, 02:00 PM
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Pellican does of course!

You can get the whole kit here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/por_911M_911REC_main.htm
Or just the coupler bushings here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911E/POR_911E_pedals_pg2.htm#item3

I ordered the kit and had the local NAPA store/machine shop press in the coupler bushings for me. It cost like $5-10 to have them put in I think.

Pat
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Old 11-19-2003, 04:40 PM
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JK, sounds like you need to do a clutch adjustment and change the tranny fluid. I'd go with Swepco.

Glad to hear the bushings went well, though!

-B
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Old 11-19-2003, 05:53 PM
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Thanks,

I have adjusted the clutch twice now.

The clutch pedal return spring is missing on my car. I have ordered one though.

also the clutch cable it adjusted to its limit ie no more threads either way ?

Could the spring or cable cause my problems ?

Old 11-19-2003, 08:42 PM
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