Nice job Dickster. Mine is also apart in the garage awaiting the right rear spring plate to be re-installed with a new 28mm torsion bar and to reinstall my "New" revalved rear dampers back from Bilstein. I hope I don't have to re-index when adjusting my ride height. :)

Also just ordered the front bushings from Chuck to redo the front.

Good luck on the other side.

Noel

cheers guys.

chris,

i only have space in the garage for doin a side at a time. but theres no problem, you'd use the same spring plate angle anyway.

yep thats the best place to put axle stands, but i used some wood to make a softer pad. the factory added proper mounts in the same place on later cars i believe.

when you doin yours? since you've already done the spring plate bushes you'll save loads of time - reckon on one long day to both sides.

chris,

let me dig out the details for the angle finder - its great.

the brakes are next!!!

btw - you need a big torque wrench - upto nearly 200lbs. i dont have one so the ride height adjustment bolts will be done later.

make sure you've got all the tools you need.

Dickster, nice job... however I am afraid that your car might end up at about 23" after a couple of miles. My car dropped about an inch after about 50 miles when I changed bushings and torsion bars.

Not sure when I'm gonna tackle it Richard. I keep thinking I should swap my rear torsion bars (wasn't going to originally) after the front ones snapped. If I do I'll have to postpone till I can afford them :( Thinking of going with the 930 26mm rears as I've heard decent reviews (on this forum) of going this route with the stock front ones. I think the RSR used this setup.

Thanks for the tips. Definately don't want to be going into this half assed!

neilk,

not sure about that, the angle is set for the height and that should be it. maybe others have got comments?

i must admit i was half expecting mine to be high until i took it on the road - it came out at 24"ish as soon as i dropped the jack! i have some adjustment there if it does drop.

chris,

well, you definitely dont want to do it twice! as far as actually doing it goes, as long as its not rushed ats really pretty straightforward. when you separate the spring plate from the banana arm release the two bolts/nuts near the hub first - then remove the toe/camber adjustment bolts/nuts. reverse on installation - it should eble you to line things up easier.

also plenty of lube on those bushes so that the end cover goes on easy.

What if you get hollow bars -- how do you get paint and/or grease into the inside??

What are you doing with the brakes?

Have been thinking myself in circles about the brakes. Too many alternatives.

Do yo mind posting the Toms' website address. I dont think I am familiar with it.

Same thing here. Ride height changed significantly after the first 20 miles. :( But it is close enough to beat around and I will have the car set up by a shop. You can only do so much with a protractor and chalk. I think the DYer can get it close enough for street use but if you want to do any competition, you will need the ride heigh set by a pro, together with corner balancing and a serious alignment.

G

toms website: http://vintagebus.com/porsche/

i have hollow bars and i have no idea - i guess just block the ends up with grease. i greased the outside good and dont worry too much about it.

i have 930 brakes ready to go in.

the car will be professional aligned when i'm finished - i do not want to get into cambers/toes/corner balance etc, even for a road car.

I sprayed my insides with WD-40. Just for the heck of it. Remember, the major forces are working on the outside, so even if the inside should get a spec of rust, it won't be as bad as the outside. I wasn't too worried, since I don't live in the rust belt or anything...

G

thats not a bad idea. i used wd40 to clean up the area that the bush sits in the tub. fair bit of dirt had accumulated and blocked two very small drain holes there.

and judging by the inside of the t/bar tube (it looked very clean/dry) not too much moisture gets in there.

the dial angle finder is availabel in the uk from "pop browns".

tel: 08456 588191
web: www.popbrowns.co.uk

cost £10.95 plus vat and p&p

Is there anything wrong with the one Harbor Frieght sells for $6?

We don't have Harbor Frieghts!

But we have Popbrowns! don't know WTF Richard found them!

Cheers,

Tim.

lol

mad name aint it - i never knew places like that existed!

i just did a search for "dial angle finder" or something ;)

just finished the rear right hand side today.

dropped the car down off the jack, and she is looking looooooww.

it now measures just under 23.5" at the back (both sides) - the front has now risen to over 26.5"!!

i am shooting for 24" in the back so it should rise 1/2" when i drop the front? any opinions on this?

at what point is it too low for bilstein gas shocks without having them altered??

any input appreciated.

Split a piece of flexible hose lengthwise and run it around the edge of the hole for the access plate - that will keep tools etc. from denting or scraping the body work.

This also works on the F or R fenders when you are working close to them - better than tape and easier to remove.