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turbo tie rod wrench

I don't have my 101 projects book handy and I need to order some parts this morning. I was planning on bolting up a set of turbo tie rods on the steering rack while it is out of the car.

Do I still need the tie rod wrench if the steering rack is out of the car?

In addition to the tierods Im replacing the balljoints. Heres a list of the parts Im going to order. If someone could skim through this and let me know if Im forgetting anything I would really appreciate it.

-Ball Joint, 911 (1972-89), C-341-049-01, qty 2
-Threaded Pin for Ball Joint Attachment, 911 (1972-73), C-341-119-06, qty 2
-Washer for Ball Joint Threaded Pin, J-089-006-02, qty 2
-lock Nut for Ball Joint Threaded Pin, K-084-019-02, qty 2
-Cotter Pin for Ball Joint Lock Plate, 912, 911 (1972-73), N-012-521-1, qty 2
-Lock Plate for Ball Joint Bottom Nut, 912, 911 (1972-73), A-341-426-00, qty 2
-Nut for Ball Joint to A-Arm Attachment (sold per each), 911/912 (1969-73)_, A-341-425-00, qty 2
-Ball Joint Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, 911 (1965-89), PEL-TOL-P210, qty 1


Thanks for the help!
Old 11-25-2003, 06:44 AM
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You may need the wrench to loosen the circular brass pieces that the boots attach to. One on mine was really tight. They can act as locknuts on the tie rod. Bike shops have the wrenches for $10-15.
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:08 AM
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Maybe a bump steer kit if you are lowering?

You will probably not use the part PEL-TOL-P210 to remove the ball joint castellated nut, but instead simply cut the nut off with a Dremel circular saw, hacksaw, or cold chisel against the notches (alternating one on one side, one on the other). This tool will be used, with a cheater bar, to put the new castellated nut on.

You are so close to pulling the struts - how are your shocks? You might consider inserts at this time. But then again, we'd be off to A-arm bushings and T bars and that could get expensive.

Do purchase some blue Loctite for the tie rods-into-the rack. And the proper synthetic grease (as per Warren) for the rack rebuild.

Some folks also go for a new (is it a U-) joint at the rack-to-steering area, and also replace the plastic bushing in the steering wheel with the superior metal one offered by Pelican. Just a thought.

John
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:22 AM
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Thanks for the heads up on the loctite, bump steer kit, steering wheel bushing, and grease. I'll check out the bike shop for the wrench if I run into a problem.

I definitely want to refresh the rack since everything is in pieces already. Is there a specific grease that should be used, or will any synthetic from the autoparts store work OK? If there is a thread that covers all of this can someone point me to it?

Front struts have new Koni sport yellow inserts installed and have been cleaned and resprayed. A-arms and cross member have been cleaned and resprayed as well. Ive got a set of Chuck's bushings that are pressed in place along with a new set of Sander 22mm front bars.

Thanks again for the help!
Old 11-25-2003, 09:33 AM
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I just did this. It is VERY easy with the rack out of the car.

Use a molybdenum based grease in the rack housing. Take the grease covers caps off and clean out any old grease. Add the new grease. Turn the rack to both extremes and it will pull some of the grease in the rack. Add some more.

Also, when the rack is rotated to each extreme, add some grease on the part of the rack that is exposed and then rotate it the opposite way. Be sure to reseal the grease cover caps on the rack. There is a paper seal you can get, or just use some type of sealant like loctite, otherwise your grease may leak out over time.

I also cleaned the mating surfaces of the grease cover caps really well before reinstalling and resealing.

In regards to the tie rods, I rotate the old tie rod until it was 90 degrees to the rack and use the tie rod itself as leverage to unscrew itself from the rack. The circular pieces that held the old boot on came along with the tie rods and then easily unscrewed off of the old tie rod.

Be sure to note that you use the spacers in the tie rod kit and not the old round pieces.

Here is what was accomplished after I rebuilt my rack..

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Old 11-25-2003, 09:50 AM
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Karl:

Great pic and nice job!

From Warren's thread:

Replace with a premium-quality synthetic grease such as Valvoline #985 & #986 SynPower Synthetic Grease with Moly.

John
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:04 AM
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As long as you are tearing down your steering rack, I think you should install the Lindsey Racing rack (reduces lock-to-lock by 20%) and give us a full report. I.e., I encourage you to spend the $420 to tell me if I should. :-)
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Old 11-25-2003, 12:06 PM
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Thanks Karl, thats exactly how I was planning on tackling this job. Do those tie rod ends take care of the bump steer geometry issue? That looks really clean, good job!

sorry John, Im not going to be a guinea pig for the Lindsey Racing rack Sounds pretty slick, but the existing rack is one of the few parts from my car that I didnt put on the curb with the rest of the garbage

Thanks again for the help
Old 11-25-2003, 02:14 PM
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I used some Castrol degreaser and a wire brush and scribbed the rack clean. Whatever doesn't come off, you can get off with MEK (but due it with good ventilation)

The tie rod ends are the ERP bump steer kit. (pricey) They cure the bump steer geometry issue and they have nifty spherical ball end joints on them. Or you can raise and bend the spindles on your struts (have someone who knows what they are doing do it for you).

One thing that several people don't understand is when you go to install the new tie rod boot covers. There is a rubber circular piece on the new tie rod. When you go to pull the rubber cover over, you think it will rest in place. You actually have to take a small screw driver or some sort of skinny metal rod and stretch the end of the boot to rest in the groove of the rubber circular piece. Some installers don't realize that and end up trying to zip-tie it in place.

Yes... loctite the ends of the rod into the rack.
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Old 11-25-2003, 02:51 PM
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How often should the steering rack be lubricated?

ANd how would you do it without taking it out of the car?
Old 11-26-2003, 05:11 PM
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PEL-TOL-P210 is used to take ball joints off too. For Pete's sake, buy an impact wrench instead of dremeling off nuts and around on your suspension components! And if you don't want to buy an impact, pull the A arm and bring it to a shop. You don't want to risk putting any cuts (=stress raisers) in you suspension components. That's a hack job, literally.

George
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:40 PM
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Dremel'ed the castelatted nuts off of my ball joints yesterday, after pulling the A-arms. I have to agree with George that I'd have far preferred using the proper tool. I really thought that, after lots of penetrating fluid, I would be able to remove the nuts. Not a chance.

The tie rod ends were a snap though. Used the tool sold by Pelican and it took all of 30 seconds to quickly and easily pop the ball joints. Highly recommended instead of the pickle fork/tap on strut loop/heat strut loop advice.

John
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Old 12-01-2003, 07:18 AM
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One thing that was not mentioned in the 101 article on replacing the tie rods was the rack end covers where the rods screw in and hold the rack boots over the rack. They act as a lock nut to the tie rods as well as being the lip where the steering rack boots come over. You get rid of these when you upgrade to the turbo rods. You can do as the article says and use the tie rod as a wrench to unscrew it but mine were insanely tight. I broke loose the steering rack boot end caps first with a large screw driver and a few good blows with a hammer. After doing it the old way on the right side, I tried my new way on the left side and it took half as long. I would never do it any other way as this cut the job time in half for me. YMMV.

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Old 12-29-2003, 09:59 AM
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The tie rod puller tool is great. The pickle fork thing wouldn't budge my tie rod ends, but the puller took all of 5 seconds & a 5 year old could have done it. While the rack is out is there any procedure for checking wear or play?
Old 12-29-2003, 10:22 AM
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AA used to say don't disassemble the rack, although I don't know exactly why.
I found an old 1-3/16" wrench at a surplus yard and thinned it down with a disc grinder to about 3/16" thick to install my tt-rods on the car. I forget the metric size, but 1-3/16" is a nice snug fit. Kind of like 13mm and 1/2".
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Last edited by no substitute; 12-29-2003 at 04:17 PM..
Old 12-29-2003, 11:15 AM
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ubiquity0: Correct but I'm talking about the steering rack outer boot support, part# C-347-056-00, not the tie rod end (that's on the wheel side of the tie rod). It's the disk on the end of the steering rack that the rods screw into and acts as a lock nut to the tie rod itself. If you loosen this first it makes the job 10 times easier.

Rocking the steering wheel back and forth rapidly you can detect play but if there is that much in there you should see other problems with shimie and rattle problems being transmitted to the steering wheel. This is my problem on my 89. Anybody actually done a full rebuild of a steering rack? I don't mean lubing it, I mean actually replacing parts. Looks like I'll be going for the rebuilt unit.

I'm always fascinated when people use a rod puller for the 1st time since It's a fairly standard tool used on most cars. Nobody uses a fork, at least at the shops they don't. I'm sure it has it's uses but not on a german car.

Kenrinc-
Old 12-29-2003, 11:17 AM
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I've taken a 74 rack apart. Other than the bearing(s) and seals I don't know what should be replaced if anything. I wish I had more precise instructions on re-assembly measurements.
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Old 12-29-2003, 11:25 AM
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