My dealer is pretty bad about parts for cars built before 2000!

I would really appreciate it if you could send me one, JW.

Do you think all the gears in the assembled photos look like they are in their proper places? I need some confidence to actually tighten things up nd put it back in.

Thanks,

Olivier

Ltest paranoia
 

OK, while I wait to get a replacement gasket, I am now worried about the detents in the differential housing for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift rods.

I got the external detents in correctly, but I can see in a Bentley diagram that there is also a detent between the two rods.

Is his one that can also get out of place? Is there a way to test that it is working?

I aks because I did not pay any special attention to it during that portion of the reassembly.

Thanks,

Olivier

O:

I have a very good picture of that detent set up on the page.

www.pelicanparts.com/motorcity/marcesq3

Pull the plug on top of the case and make sure you can see the shift shaft. If you see the pill, well . . . . . you know the drill.

Thanks, Marc. You are much better at documenting this than I am. I will use your picture to double-check that detent again. I am being way too paranoid, I know, but I have nothing else to do while waiting for a new gasket.

Olivier

Hey . . . . . paranoid is ok . . . . . look what happened to me :)

Some pretty good picks of where things are marcesq, definitely good help. Did you follow a manual for your tranny rebuild? Is there a good book out there to follow. I'm going to start my rebuild in the next week and I'm terrified!

Matt:

I followed (well in some cases not closely enough) the factory manual.

Please feel free to PM if you need help. I can honestly say I made just about every mistake that could have been made so I'm pretty familiar with these boxes now.

Thanks for the help and support Marc. BTW, what is the "factory" manual?

I used both the Bentley and Haynes manuals, but not often enough. My advice is to read everything first (did that); read it all again (did that), take it apart slowly (I moved too fast); order the parts you need right away (I took too long trying to be cheap, and ended up spending more anyway); put it back together soon before you forget stuff 9I made that mistake).

The one thing to be careful with the manuals is that they often assume all the special tools and that you will be reassembling everything anyway. This affects how far down they tell you to break things apart, and that can cause problems. Look over JW's advice to see what assemblies to keep together to save time and effort.

Once you see inside, it is very straightforward.

Olivier

OHHHHHHHHHHH MY GOD . . . . just went for a spin . . . . I can't believe just how good a 915 can feel or how bad it can get and still function . . . . . I actually was able to speed shift into 2nd and dare I say DOWNSHIFT into 2nd at higher than idle speeeds :)

Alrighty then! This Saturday I'm pulling the tranny and the adventure begins! A friend a few streets over has been a Porsche/VW mechanic for over 20 years and said he'd help me tear it down and reassemble. Hopefully, I can get Pat S to come over and help me drop the engine & tranny on Satruday morning so Steve can come over Saturday afternoon. You guys give me hope :)

It won't start, help!
 

All the build up to this moment, and it won't start!

I have a good spark jumping about 3/4" from the coil wire to the engine mount, and I have plenty of fuel (the pump runs and the injectors "scream" when the sensor plate is lifted.

JW helped me try some things over the phone, but I am hoping another novice remembers something similar after they removed and replaced the engine and rebuilt the CIS system.

Can anyone think of a connection I may have gotten wrong or missed that would prevent the engine from firing with air, fuel, and spark? The distributor was not removed, and I don't think I could have reversed the cap itself (the wires stayed connected).

Also, the tranny (or starter) is groaning, which makes me very nervous, but the tranny shifts into all gears easily, and the car rolls fine with everything connected. Clutch pedal feels fine and I adjusted it to specs.

Help! I can't stomach the thought of pulling everything apart again, and I have to do some major work on my wife's Jeep before it falls apart (I can only have one car in maintenance at a time!)

Thanks in advance,

Olivier

do you have spark at the plugs? with fuel and spark i alway go from the last point (injectors and plugs) and look for the goods there, then i move upstream. your spark at the coil wire is a good sign, but i promise alot can happen from the dist cap to the end of the spark plug. same with the injectors. without a doubt,grab one and see it spray. it screaming doesnt mean a thing. at my lowest, i had raw fuel weeping from my muffler. and once i sat down, i figured it out. IMHO, i dont think you verified spark and fuel just yet.

what type of jeep does your wife drive? an older CJ?

cliff,
keep the symtoms coming! well get it.

I did check one plug for spark, and it was good. I am going to verify the injectors are spraying now.

My wife's car is a 95 XJ, that is getting a 3" OME lift and 31" tires.

I also have a 93 YJ that I am driving now (it does not get much use when the 911 is working!)

Thanks,

Olivier

OK, the injectors are spraying a ton of fuel. The spark jumps about 3/4" at the coil wire and is also present at the spark plugs.

I am baffled. I did replace a lot of worn seals in the CIS system, including the intake runner boots (one was cracked almost through), the gasket under the fuel distributor that was deteriorated completely, and I did find and seal some small imperfections in the way the airbox itself hooked together. The car still ran, though, it was mostly the screws that pulled out, etc. I sealed it up really well, though.

I also had some weird idle symptoms I was living with, but nothing too severe. The idle would rise slightly as the engine warmed up and I tried everything to fix that. I settled on a vacuum leak, even though propane, etc. showed nothing and it was temperature-sensitive.

Could I have been compensating for a massive vacuum leak with the mixture enough that it is now so far off it won't start? If that is a possibility, what is a good starting point for the mixture screw in terms of turns to get it running?

I am running out of ideas quickly. How can I have air, spark, and fuel, and not even a pop?

Olivier

O:

Try unpluging and repluging the 14 pin connector.

Otherwise, I don't have a clue.

Sorry.

Thanks, Marc. I tried that with both connectors, and nothing.

Can anyone verify the large breather hos connections for me? I have the one that goes to the boot between the FD and TB (at the port closer to the TB) connected to the oil filler neck, and the larger hose to the crankcase breather to the oil tank itself. Is that right?

Does anyone know how many turns out the mixture screw should be?

Olivier

air boot to filler neck, case breather hose to side of oil tank.
it should run for at least a moment just from the fuel that you squirted in. there's no particular starting point as far as turns on the mixture screw, but you can get in the ballpark by activating the fuel pump, pulling out one injector, and adjusting the screw clockwise until just a tiny bit of lift on the sensor plate arm causes the injector to spray a bit. at that point it's probably somewhat too rich, but it should start and run.

Yank a plug and see if it sparks.

OK, my battery and starter need a rest for the night, but I have pulled some more plugs and they all have good sparks, even though they are wet with fuel.

I do have a vacuum gauge that has been on the engine for a while, and there is no vacuum at all when it is cranking. With the spark and fuel so strong, I am thinking there is either an air/vacuum issue, or a timing/mixture issue.

Can someone with an 82 confirm my small vacuum connections? None of the diagrams I have found on the website or in the manuals are specific enough with the TB connections. Here is what I have:

Distributor retard (closest to crank) leads to the lowest port on the front (looking at the TB) of the TB.

Distributor advance goes to the port on the back of the TB.

I have a vacuum connection on my CPR that goes to a third small port on the TB, very near the one where the distributo retard is connected, but slightly higher up and closer to the FD side.

Finally, there is a slightly larger port that I have running to the vacuum gauge. It was the line running to the decel valve that I had t'd into, but I plugged the decel valve and ran the line directly to the gauge some time ago, and it ran fine like that before this set of repairs.

Olivier