P-car did not like...what did I do wrong?
 

Took the car for a wash today, stopped the motor and took about 20 min. drying the exterior. Starts up great...runs a little bit rough, but I did spray some water in and around the wheel wells so I figure the plug wires must have gotten wet. Drive the car for about 20 min., oil is at 185 or so. Stop and dump in some STP fuel injection cleaner and some 91 octane gas. Drive home. Car sits for about an hour or so, and when I went to start it, it would crank, but not start (ignition on for about 3 seconds. Odd, NEVER did this before. I turn the starter off, wait like 5 seconds and the car starts up instantly....like it used to. I drive off to Auto Zone, and was in the store about 10 minutes or so. Same thing. Crank for 3 seconds, no joy. Wait for 5 seconds and the car jumps to life. I'm thinking the fuel injector cleaner did one of the following:
-Knocked enough crap loose in my gas tank to cause my fuel pump check valve to not seat properly.
-Somehow the chemicals damaged my (fairly new) fuel accumulator
-For some crazy reason caused one of the injectors to stick open due to a disloged particle getting trapped in the tip?

Any thoughts?

R/
Dustin

Woulb be nice to know what kind of vehicle it is.

Since you mentioned accumulator I'm assuming it is CIS injected?

I doubt it is in the injection system, I would check out the ignition first.

Pull the dizzy cap and look for water, dry it out or spray a little wd-40 in there (a little) and check your spark plug wire connections to make sure they aren't wet.
Usually if the injector or accumulator or check valve are leaking the warm-start problem will not go away after a few seconds.

it sure sounds electrical.

If it's CIS, an injector can't be stuck open, since the injectors are fully open all the time when the car is running. They don't open and close like a Motronic injector (thus, "Continuous" Injection System).

I'd go with taking off the distributor cap and drying it out.

Fellas,
Sorry, it is a 1983 SC. I did check under the cap, even ran a rag inside the inside even though it was dry as a bone. I sincerely doubt the plug wires are still wet, but I'll give it a look in the morning. Sammy, I'm wondering why an electrical problem would "go away"after a few seconds, but I do appreciate the train of thought. Since the car never really gets that hot (temps in the high 30's to low 40's), I'm wondrering if the problem isn't allowed to become severe enough to cause a REALLY hard warm start problem, in a sense masking either the check valve or accumulator? I'm not sure that makes sense, but from what I understand if a CIS car is exhibiting hot start problems, you can get the car to start if you cool the pump and lines around the fuel distributor with canned air. Just food for thought...

R/
Dustin

The easiest way to start a 911 when it is having hot start problems is to lift the air sensnor plate with the ignition on. That pressurizes the injector lines and primes the injectors to get rid of the vapor lock. Cooling the lines could work too, but would be more hassle.

The part about not starting, then starting right up the second time you crank it has me stumped.
It could be mixture related, as if one of the injectors was leaking fuel into the combustion chanbers and it takes a few cranks to clear it up. maybe.
I'd need more info to diagnose it any farther, unless you want me to throw darts but I'm not a very good dart player ;)