the practicalities of home alignment?

[dickster]

i'm in the middle of changing t/bars and bushes and had intended to get the car professionally aligned on completion. however, an additional member to the family mean funds are a bit tight at the mo.

so i've decided to try and tackle the alignment. i've read a few threads that have been really useful, and ron's scanned instructions should be a great help. seems fairly straightforward as long as i take care to do things accurately.

however i have a couple of practical questions that dont seem to be covered anywhere.

1. i need to get the car level (on its wheels) but raised off the ground to gain access to the adjustments ) esp. at the rear?

2. how high does it need to be? someone mentioned they used 2" x 8" - 2" doesnt seem enough to me?

3. do you make the rear camber/toe adjustments with the weight of the car still on the wheels (will the adjusters hold the position ok while i tighten things back up?)

thanks for your help.

[RoninLB]

"1. i need to get the car level (on its wheels) but raised off the ground to gain access to the adjustments ) esp. at the rear? "
--- I level the car rake and have 3/4 tank of fuel and use weights in the drivers seat to match my weight. Then have the floor level

"2. how high does it need to be? someone mentioned they used 2" x 8" - 2" doesnt seem enough to me?"
--- then how about doubling up the 2x8. An extra 1 1/2inch makes a big difference in the squeeze. Your only squeezing your shoulder.

"do you make the rear camber/toe adjustments with the weight of the car still on the wheels (will the adjusters hold the position ok while i tighten things back up?)"
--- that's what I do

And,
-have tire psi set
- set ride height or car may pull to one side
-I check settings with a temp gauge on inner, middle, and outer sections between the threads after driving on a straight road
road. I only do 2 tires at a time
- my tires wear perfectly
- hopefully your tires aren't worn unevenly to do this
- the 1st time is teidous

[dickster]

ron

do you go under from the side (wheel in the way?) or the rear of the car?

do you start with the 2 (each side) banana arm bolts loose? they are difficult to access with the wheel off! and then tighten with the wheel off?

just trying to get some perspective so i dont stand there scratching my head (as usual) for an hour!

i'm looking for a cheap gauge - can you recommend anything? i've found a couple for about £50. one is sheet metal, has 2 scales (one for caster the other camber) and a plumb line - not sure how good they are!

thanks for your help.

[dean]

IMO a corner-balance is just as important as an alignment. Also I found it hard to change the settings on the rear with weight on the car. So I had to jack it up. Then to get a good reading I had to roll the car 20 ft to settle the susp. That to me, is why it is a PIA to do a home alignment. Have fun

[dickster]

dean

i agree thats a pita.

you can't get the adjustment right first time that way - it would seem.

exactly what i'm trying to avoid.

[RoninLB]

"do you go under from the side (wheel in the way?) or the rear of the car"
--- side, in front of rear wheel

"do you start with the 2 (each side) banana arm bolts loose? they are difficult to access with the wheel off! and then tighten with the wheel off?"
--- bolts slightly loose.. very little drag from adjusting.. then tighten without moving the car.. You gotta do what's best for you.. it's awarkard till you figure your best attack plan.. then it's only a PIA.. but very doable. As long as you know what your trying to accomplish you'll be able to do it.

"just trying to get some perspective so i dont stand there scratching my head (as usual) for an hour!"
--- understandable.. you won't be scratching , you'll be twisting under there.. it's brainless.. just pull the rear wheel of 1st and think about what wrenches you'll need to do it.

"i'm looking for a cheap gauge "
--- I use a simple level and this hardware protractor for everything. I put the protractor on the door lower sill to get the 1deg angle of the car.. it cost about $12us. I got this at Sears in Craftsman section.. but I've seen them in hardware stores. the pic is the same for all of them. Only the stamped dealer is different.

[dickster]

ron

okay, thats great. and i have a similar gauge i used for the spring plate angle.

thanks.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by dean
IMO a corner-balance is just as important as an alignment. Also I found it hard to change the settings on the rear with weight on the car. So I had to jack it up. Then to get a good reading I had to roll the car 20 ft to settle the susp. That to me, is why it is a PIA to do a home alignment. Have fun

I don't jack up the car..

as long as my tires wear perfect and the car drives straight it's good enough for me. Granted that if I was sliding thru the twisties a corner balance would help. I have the 1deg rake perfect to the fender wells. I should check my corner balance for entertainment. A check wouldn't cost me anything.

anyway, different strokes for different folks.......Ron

[dean]

Ron,
You would know if your corners are out. The car pulls like a bastard. So yours must be good. I also agree that the alignment is not that critical.

[Rot 911]

Do you guys have a copy of this? Works great for at home alignments.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by dean
Ron,
You would know if your corners are out. The car pulls like a bastard. So yours must be good. I also agree that the alignment is not that critical.

thank you Dean..
I didn't know that was a confirm

I can take my hands off the wheel at 80mph on a flat straight and stretch my arms and shoulders a few times with almost No toe-in.. big cross winds do make a difference.

doing the tire temps in the 3 tire areas relaxed me, even though the car drives straight. I don't use the laser temp meter. I have a metal probe adapter for my Fluke and measure at the tire base between the threads.. gotta move fast because the temps fall quick.. so only 2 at a time

[dickster]

kurt

yep, thanks - i found it in a thread last night. copied it.

[Chuck Moreland]

I have a set of 8x8 blocks I drive the car up onto for this purpose. The top of the 8x8s are leveled using a water level.

The 8x8s are marginally acceptable for getting under and doing the adjustments. When I get my new shop built I'm going to make a nice setup rack. Probably 12+ inches high with turn tables.

[dickster]

chuck

the problem is driving up - which i guess you have to, as its no good jacking up and lowering onto blocks.

[Chuck Moreland]

I used a chainsaw to cut the blocks at an angle such that I can drive up.