Half shaft removal - outboard end

notmytarga · notmytarga's Garage

I'm in the midst of a restoration of my 1975 911S Targa and wanted to remove the half shafts before dropping the engine/transmission. I am able to separate the inboard plate from the transmission but am stuck on the outboard connection.

If it is similar to the inboard one the gap between the wheel hub and the half shaft is nested into the trailing arm and I can't use the big screwdriver technique to separate them and the pins.

I know that some 911s (mid 80's) had the axle as one part with the half shaft but that isn't supposed to be the case in 1975. And why would there be the same allen bolt setup on both ends?

What does this connection consist of and are there any tips to separate it? THANKS!

vash · vash's Garage

you need to change your board name...

notmytarga · notmytarga's Garage

I wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't mine - but the memory of my deceased father-in-law enjoying this car spurs me on as well! In a way it is still his.

vash · vash's Garage

leave it.. i like it.

CHILI · CHILI's Garage

Once you've removed the big allen bolts, you can lower it at the trans point and tap it with a mallet while pulling strait out. Mine took a little work, but they came out. Just stuck with the gaskets. You can also tap the end at the wheel with a mallet to break the seal. But, make sure you're at an angle were you can hold the weight of the half shaft. I.e. not under it. man, they aren't light and if it comes lose and catches you off gaurd you could end up with a face full hurt. Just a warning.

Randy Webb · 12-12-2003, 02:37 PM

I just leave the outboard side connected -- tie them to the shock mts iwth coat hanger wire to move the car around.

I din't have any trouble taking them off when I re greased them a couple years ago tho -- are you using a plastic wedge to separate them?

notmytarga · notmytarga's Garage

I'm not sure where the plastic wedge comes into play.

I would like to remove them entirely because I'm not sure how long the tranny will be out and how much I will need to move it.

I'd like to have them rebuilt locally, they are nearly 30 years old. - And currently they are the dirtiest part of the car!

I've done some raps with a slide hammer before posting this. I'm working with the wheel off on jackstands and not under the car. I didn't give up but the 2 yo and 10 month kids woke from their nap and this board becomes my best tool when they are scampering about.

Thanks for the help - any more advise to separate them?

Randy Webb · 12-12-2003, 03:10 PM

drive a plastic or wood wedge into the gap between mounting flange & CV joint -- or use a small curved wrecking bar (carefully).

Also work the shaft up & down L&R as you pull on it.

notmytarga · notmytarga's Garage

Using a large screwdriver in the gap on the transmission end worked fine. But that equivalent gap is not visible on the outboard side - its within the trailing arm.

I will mallet and slide hammer on it some more.

Thanks!

Early_S_Man · 12-12-2003, 07:39 PM

Mike,

1975 was a transition year for CV-joints ... early year cars cars had CVs with four M10 Allen bolt and two Spiroloc pins (German equivalent to roll-pins, but much stronger) and later cars got six M8 Allen bolts per CV. So, which is yours?

The CVs with six bolts are a bit easier to separate, so I am taking a SWAG that yours is an early-year '75! With the E-brake securely locked to keep axle from turning, try rocking the CV back and forth with large Channel-Lock pliers in the plane of the two Spiroloc pins ... first apply force to pivot CV so one pin is pulled out, then reverse force so the other pin is tensioned. The pins can get rusted to the drive flange or stub axle, hence the application of force to 'pull' the pin out of the stub axle! A large plastic dead-blow mallet can help if the CV is WHACKED HARD on the side while the rocking force is applied ...

notmytarga · notmytarga's Garage

I changed techniques with success. Perhaps it is somewhat of a risk that the outer CV joint is damaged. I was able to separate it by knocking/swinging the axle to its limit of movement back & forth while rotating the hub. It came loose after a few minutes. I went to the other side and had that whole one out in about another 15 min.

Warren - I have the Spirolock pins - they look like rolled steel. They came off with the half axle on one side and stayed in the stub axle on the other. I suppose I should remove them before sending the half axles off.

The channel-lock would be less risk of hurting the joint. I plan to have them rebuilt - I will post here if damage is evident.

911pcars · 12-13-2003, 11:13 AM

Maybe this is a good place to ask a question others have wondered and asked before:

Are there any differences in the axle OD, length and spline count through the 911 years? Or, will an early axle fit a later CV joint? If you've updated or backdated your gearbox or control arms for whatever reason, you know what I'm referring to.

Anyone?

Sherwood