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Spark Plug #1
So i have wasted 2 nights trying to get my spark plug out of cylinder number 1. I have replaced spark plugs before and I have my system down...I have 2 short extensions and then just a normal spark plug removing socket (with rubber insert). So here's the problem. My socket and spark plug are stuck in my engine. I think there isnt enough clearance to get the spark plug removing socket out with the spark plug inside it. What I really think is causing the problem is that I got a new socket and it doesnt allow the spark plug to seat far enough into the socket so now the whole assembly is stuck in my engine. I can wiggle it around and stuff but it just does want to come out. The entension pulls right out of the socket when I try and put any pressure on it. Conseqently I screwed the spark plug back in and tried to get just the socket out and the rubber is to new and grips to much and I cant remove just the socket. Please help me I am so frustrated. I have already done the rest of my car and I have been battling with this one. I live in Santa Cruz and if anyone is in the area and looking for something to do this weekend and would like to stop by please call me 831-588-6010. Hope you guys can help me out...you always have in the past.
PS My one idea is take a shot of WD40 into the center of the socket and try and get it on the rubber without getting it in the socket itself...I am I just stupid....dont answer that...I am already feeling pretty stupid. David |
i gave this dude a call already, problem solved.
the trick is two 3" LOCKING extensions from sears. |
Try and find a Porsche factory spark plug tool, they work the best. I was always frustrated by extensions ect... until I bought the proper tool.
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What Power said. The factory tool rocks.
But glad the problem is solved. |
Yes to the factory tool, or if you don't have one, Harbor Freight has a flex extention with a spring over it that is very similar to the factory piece.
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I use locking extensions.
Anyone that has worked on these things has been in the same boat as you have. If you are going to use a spark plug socket find some way to lock it to the extension. The locking extensions can be inserted into the socket while its still on the plug and caught down in that spark plug well. Good luck, David Duffield |
One other trick someone once taught me was to wrap tape (racers, duct, etc..) around any connection points on the sockets/extensions just so there is no chance anything gets left down there.
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So now I have unscrewed the situation but my spark plug is still in my engine. Please help...I cant find any socket thats going to get good grip on that spark plug. I have done the rest of the car and its #1 thats causing problems. Anyone around Santa Cruz willing to give me a hand and let me borrow your spark plug removal tool? Give me a call. Thanks alot.
David |
6 point, 13/16" deep socket. At this point, you may not be concerned with breaking the ceramic, thus no rubber insert needed.
Sherwood http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
Relax, we've all been there. First, the car will run as is, if need be. What you need uis the factory tool or the Harbor Freight tool, and if no one nearby has one, run it with one old plug until you get the tool you need.
911's are deep breath machines-when you get to the point I sense you're at, walk away, take a deep breath... |
i dont get it, is the old plug in the car or the new one?
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Is the rubber insert still in the sparkplug socket? If not, use a mirror and flashlight to look for it in the sparkplug hole. Extract the insert with bent nose needle nose pliers or a long flexible grapper tool (3 small claws actuated by pushing a button at the other end). Sears sells the grabber tool. If the sparkplug is loose the claws can extract the sparkplug by grabbing the top where the sparkplug wire connector attaches. Jim
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For those that do not have them, Porsche just re-released the sparkplug tool. Complete with wrench to turn the sparkplug tool.
$79.00 AFJuvat |
If you use a spark plug socket, sometimes there is not enough clearance between the socket and the head and it gets wedged in there. Use just a standard 13/16 socket with a little masking tape inside to help retain the plug.
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I believe that the Snap-on spark plug socket has a magnetic insert in it instead of the foam robber insert or the rubber "o" ring found in some.
David Duffield |
I got the previously stuck socket out of the engine and then removed the little rubber insert that was still on the spark plug. Now I am just trying to remove the current old spark plug and my standard spark plug socket is to large to work with the way cylinder #1 is angled, I believe there isnt enough clearance for the socket to fit in.
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Take the valve cover off and unscrew it by hand.
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I just discovered I have a Klein 21 with spring, swivel, and hex insert hole. Must have come out of the 914. This tool is good, but the solid one is better? TIA.
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I am looking at picking up a tool that will solve my cursed spark plugs and I was wondering which one I should get of these two. Or will both do the job.
Thanks again. David |
The first one. It's adjustable.
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I have always found spark plugs a pain to extract/install.
Would it not be easier and safer to remove the valve cover than to risk cross threading a cylinder head? Apart from E-Bay, is there anywhere else to get this tool? Porsche dealer? Anyone have a part number? Thanks Ben |
I had a similar problem on (I hate to admit this) a Honda Civic. (There, I said it, I own a Honda, too. Please don't ban me!) In too much of a hurry trying to get a spark plug out, and got the whole mess stuck in the hole in the valve cover. Solution? One really long pair of needlenose pliers, reach in and grab the whole mess, pull it all out. Too easy.
Dan |
My 83SC came with a spark plug tool with the spring and a knurled (SP?) end that you can grab and turn with your fingers. The end has a 12 point allen socket. The tool kit has the 6mm (I think) allen wrench that fits this. I use a matching allen head socket in a standard 3/8 ratchet, breaker bar and/or torque wrench. The only flaw I have found with this perfect tool is thatthe knuckles on the flexible joint are a little sloppy. (You sometimes have to hold the socket steady to get the ratchet to click.)
Another solution that I have not seen here is to use a standard deep socket to get the spark plug loose and push a piece of hose about 1/4" id. (The same as an air hose.) over the end of the spark plug to get the last few turns out and or get the plug started in the hole. If you drop the plug in the cavity a magnet on a stick should pull it out with or without the socket still attached. Most of the rubber inserts come out of the socket if you want to use it for final tightening. Good luck! |
This is what I've been using for about 20yrs. I think it came out of my old 914 or 924 toolkit. It's foolproof. Made in Germany by Hezet pn# 2505-1. It's adjustable, knarled top, holes for hand tool and has a rubber insert to grab the plug. Never lost a plug yet.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1071698845.jpg |
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looking at that tool, doesnt craftman sell a sparkplug wrench with a "t" handle like that? i dont think the length is adjustable though.
cliff |
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$40 !!!! Holy Crap ! Didn't know my little niffty S-P wrench was that expensive. I guess I'll take better care of it.
But I guess the time it would take to retrieve one lost plug makes it worth it, considering the grief it can cause. Oh well.....at least we don't have to drop the engine to change plugs. |
In a similar situation I had recently, the "magnet on a stick" tool worked for me. It's just a magnet on the end of a thin extensible rod. Sear's has em.
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