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I'm replacing my fuel pump just because @110K, and I have driven the car until the low fuel light has come on. I am also going to have to replace the 4" fuel line between the pump and the tank because it has little cracks in it. How do I do this and replace the line minimizing spilling gas all over? Just let it drain into a receptacle and then change everything out? Any techniques that have worked?
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Dan T '85 Carrera Dansk premuff/sport muffler 7's and 8's, Steve W chip Kuehl AC and fresh top end |
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Spiphon it out the Sender hole after you take out the sender. Steve
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Peoples Republic of Long Beach, NY
Posts: 21,140
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Quote:
I needed a little weight on the hose end so it would stay on the bottom of the tank. I was changing the screen on the tank drain and maybe a quart or 2 drained out after the drain plug was removed. Some guys use the fuel pump to drain it.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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This is the first question I asked on this board.
While all options are viable I used John Walkers technique and it worked like a charm. How to drain Gas from '85 911 tank?
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
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If your carrera has the same screen in the bottom of the tank that the SC has (I really don't know if it does), now would be a good time to clean it.
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i like the idea of siphoning from the sending unit. i did it through the filler, and it worked great. i went to a hardware store and bought a seven dollar kerosene pump. it is has one rigid plastic pipe that sticks into whatever needs pumping, a red plastic squeeze bulb and a flexible discharge line. i also bought some plastic hose, but going through the sending unit hole, i bet you wouldnt. it took about 10 minutes to pump 13 gallons. these cars are friggen low, so just using gravity and relying on elevation head will not cut it.
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p.s. i didnt want to use my fuel pump because i had alot of crap in my tank that i didnt want to suck through, and i have an issue with any electrical stuff activated around gasoline fumes. basically i am scared of fire
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It worked great, maybe because I have High School experience
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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Ron is there a gasket or anything that needs to be replaced going the sender route. I'm halfway there the car is already raised and the pan is off ready to drop the pump. I figure I only have a couple of gallons left.
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Dan T '85 Carrera Dansk premuff/sport muffler 7's and 8's, Steve W chip Kuehl AC and fresh top end |
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I definately would use the seperate part number rubber gasket that Doesn't come with a new fuel level sender.
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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just for your info. i ordered the sending unit gasket from PP. the gasket i got was a thicker cork one. it was too thick to use because the existing studs were not long enough. the studs did not even protrude past the flange of the sending unit, much less the bracket that protects the wiring harness. i ended up chasing down the thin rubber gasket and i now use my cork one as a coaster in the garage. have fun
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Being that I'm a cheap SOB, I very often cut these type of gaskets from gasket material that I buy from the autoparts store. The local stuff is called troyskin. It can be bought in several thicknesses. I use it for the sump plate and the gas tank sender. I also have used it for chain covers.
I use an xacto type knife and very sharp scissors. I use a hole punch from an office supply for the stud holes. This gives me a quality gasket from a material that's impervious to all of the liquids used in a motor and is cheap. Its available at a moments notice. I keep a file folder with original gaskets in it. Just pull one out and trace around it. I use the normal gaskets for the valve covers. Good luck, David Duffield |
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