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C/V joint regrease: couple of Q's.

Hey guys:

I've checked out the C/V joint thread at CV joint disassembly and it is just about all I need, but I do have another question.

Do I understand that caustic (Berryman's, Gumout) chemicals should never be used to clean these joints for fear of removing embedded grease in the pores of the balls and races?

How do you tell if the axleshaft is a true Porsche product? That is, where should I look for the lovely P triangle on this item?

I'll be using Warren's recommended 985 Synth/Moly (Valvoline), new circlips, fresh M8x50 6-point allenheads, and new rubber bellows all around. Anything else I ought to do?

Comments welcome!
John

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Old 12-18-2003, 01:40 PM
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Re: C/V joint regrease: couple of Q's.

Quote:
Originally posted by Jdub

Do I understand that caustic (Berryman's, Gumout) chemicals should never be used to clean these joints for fear of removing embedded grease in the pores of the balls and races?

I always followed Steve Weiner's instructions. NO SOLVENT of any kind. Hand clean them with paper towels.
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77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
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Old 12-18-2003, 03:07 PM
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Not a bad idea. I have heard of stuff getting on surfaces that grease will not stick to. Makes the metal shed grease. Just wipe them up (if they're disassembled as they should be, then you can get them clean easily by wiping), pack and reassemble.
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Old 12-18-2003, 03:35 PM
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I took one of my axles apart this afternoon, one of my CVjoints is sitting in my parts cleaner . Fortunately it is the one I planned on replacing. It has some grooves in the outer race that the balls ride on. The other one looks much better. Seems I read somewhere that I'm supposed to replace both CVjoints on the axle at the same time. My gaskets were not part of the boots, they stayed attached to the CV when I took them apart. The triangle you were asking about is stamped on the side on my CVjoint along with the month & year it was made (2/80). I did not have the long curved spacers. Can anyone tell me why I need new allen head bolts?
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:09 PM
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Well now that I've taken some time to study these little beauties I am very, very impressed with the design!

However, I am wondering if I screwed up - I did not note which direction the hub/inner race faced in relation to the outer ring when they came apart - two just sort of came apart and I wasn't quick enough to note the relation. Am I dead in the water if I put these together "backwards" so that the hub does not face the direction the ring faced when I took them apart? I guess I am hoping I find the hub chamfer and can set that to face the same direction as the outer ring's identification ring.

Another quick question: Should I zip tie the boot's small end? I do understand there are bumps on the axleshaft to handle this, but I want to be very sure nothing will happen.

One thing to note: The instructions in the link http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm mention that the line on the outer ring should be closest to the boot - this is not the case: the line should face what will be the wheelside or the transside. The thicker section of the outer ring (delineated by the line) should always face one another, towards the axle center.

Note also some mention that the concave washer should be omitted. I don't believe that is the case.

My question, about the balls falling out, has to do with the fact that a new joint should not be disassembled because the tolerances are so close you will never reconstruct the CV's hub, inner race, and outer ring. Wow!

Finally, the instructions that Warren provided in that link are great. How often do you have a manual that asks "Please, remember not to..."

John
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Old 12-19-2003, 09:39 AM
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Re: Re: C/V joint regrease: couple of Q's.

Quote:
Originally posted by cary
I always followed Steve Weiner's instructions. NO SOLVENT of any kind. Hand clean them with paper towels.
Where is this written????
Old 12-19-2003, 10:05 AM
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John,

It sounds like you are asking how the inner race and outer race should fit in relation to each other. Look at Fig 3-24 on that Pelican thread you attached and note the dimensions shown. The narrow gap between the balls on the inner race should fit opposite the wide gap on the outer race. You can assemble incorrectly, but then the joint won't move at all. Ask me how I know.

Charlie
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Old 12-19-2003, 10:26 AM
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I do not zip or clip the small end of the boot. Grease does not come out of there anyway.
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Old 12-19-2003, 10:37 AM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally posted by Superman
I do not zip or clip the small end of the boot. Grease does not come out of there anyway.
ditto

although I use a zip in the large center channel to help prevent the boot expanding from the spin
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Old 12-19-2003, 10:41 AM
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John, theres a picture in the Haynes that I use everytime. Do you have the book ? It shows how they mate together.
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77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 12-19-2003, 10:58 AM
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Here are some pics from my adventures tonight.
First I installed my strut brace

Then I pulled off the left axle, cleaned & inspected the CVjoints. They looked OK. Here are some Pics of the rightside first the bad,

Then the OK one.

I had my spring plate bottomed out the wrong way so I had to reindex.

Now its bottomed out the oppisite way (down) at 18 degrees (cars sloped 1 degree)
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Old 12-19-2003, 08:58 PM
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What a great weekend! Got a chance to work full time on this project.

Thanks for answering these questions. So a zip tie at the center, just nipping in the boot center section? And the inner race-to-hub orientation: the arrangement goes together just one way then? My concern is that I have turned one "around" in the wrong direction, so that the inner hub is now facing a different direction than it did previously. I haven't gotten to my axleshafts/CVs yet. Big Fun!

The swingarms, spring plates, and all the peripherals got a nice coat of paint. Gold for the spring plates and brake dust shields, black for the spring plate bush cap, sway bar, and bar mounts, and a Hella Silver for the swingarms (honey, get my shades!).

Had a bit of a time getting the tbar out of the spring plate end (inner end came out great) Ended up drilling a 1/4" hole through the end of the spring plate "cap," center, and punched the tbar out using my 1/4 punch through the hole. I am figuring this hole will not compromise the integrity of the end. I do wish these ends used a cap, a la the A-arm, at the front. Would have made me a bit less queasy drilling a part I didn't want to have to drill.

Now, what should come out but a red tbar with "US" stamped in relief in a square at one end - anyone ever hear of US brand tbars? No manufacturer name other than this...
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Old 12-22-2003, 05:09 AM
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Wanted to add...removing the rear bushings is easy if you don't do it the way I did.

That is, be SURE to run a sharp knife where each bushing sits against the flat spring plate. I only ran a single cut through the bushing width-wise where I should also have cut the bushing away where it sits against the plates.

As a result, it took twice as long for the heat from my propane torch to reach the "backside" of the bush, and so where it was ready to peel off the round sections, it wouldn't budge from the back.

Take your time on the heat, plenty of time to let everything cook from the inside. Use the tool (if you got one) with your Neatrix bushings - the one with the curved, sharpened end, to immediately scrape all manner of rubber grunge from the round section WHILE EVERYTHING IS STILL HOT. Use a flat scraper to handle the flat spring plate proper.

Cleanup is easy using Easy Off or a good stripper left over from the days you thought you could strip your own Fuchs.

John

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Old 12-22-2003, 11:34 AM
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