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onewhippedpuppy's Avatar
 
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Question Just How Good Is POR15?

Ok, so this question is inevitable to anyone who owns an early 911, how good is POR15? With my b!tch of a rear window out to replace the seal, I figured I might as well remove my rear seats/ parcel shelf/ carpet/ etc to see how bad the rust is, as I know the rear window has been leaking for a while (PO). Regardless, there is rust, but no penetration, and all the spots feel solid. If I strip the panels, grind off the loose stuff, and POR15, will it solve my problem, and will it be a lasting solution?

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Old 12-27-2003, 11:57 AM
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IMO POR15 is the best there is. It is amazing.

If it doesn't solve your problem (which sounds perfect for POR), nothing will.
Old 12-27-2003, 12:23 PM
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the stuff really works. The key to using port 15 is to not apply it to thick. It will start to foam if one the brushes it on and allows it to pool. once you have applied it it will never come off.
Alex
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Old 12-27-2003, 12:47 PM
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The stuff is great. But beware, you really must use rubber gloves and long sleeves and protect the floor. Once it goes on it really does'nt like to come off. Laquer thinner works but only when fresh and not so well. Do not use foam brushes! This stuff eats foam brushes, get the .49˘ kind of brush and toss them.
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:05 PM
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What do I have to do as far as prep work? It's the rear deck and back seat area, so there's glue residue from the insulation, as well as a little loose rust. I assume I need to get rid of the loose rust, but should I try to get rid of the glue, or use a chemical stripper and just go down to bare metal?
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Matt J.
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:07 PM
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Sorry, but I would wire wheel it on a grinder and get it all shiny, then apply the POR 15. That way you're sure to get any bad stuff.
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:11 PM
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Read the instructions that come with it. That is the key.
Old 12-27-2003, 01:16 PM
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Does our sponsor have this miracle paint?
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Old 12-27-2003, 01:34 PM
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Prep is key. Any area with grease, brake fluid, anything and Por15 will peel off in one big sheet. Buy it in small cans (you can't ever dip your brush and then reseal) and get the metal prep and cleaner they sell as well.

It's very, very good.
Old 12-27-2003, 01:45 PM
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it is awesome

joe 68 L
Old 12-27-2003, 02:15 PM
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you can also thin it up to 20% and spray it. I'm doing a frameup on one of my Triumphs and I'm preping everything with it. The stuffs not cheap but covers a lot of area when sprayed. The surface doesn't have to be rust free just clean off the loose stuff.
I prep the metal with the Metal wash also. Its a powder thats mixed with water and since I'm sandblasting the parts I can rinse the dust off the parts.
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Old 12-27-2003, 03:23 PM
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The 914 crowd loves POR-15 SO much, the only liquid substance liked even better is free beer!
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Old 12-27-2003, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by onewhippedpuppy
but should I try to get rid of the glue,
I used a heat gun and a couple of different size scrapers.. then I cleaned with an oil and grease remover like touline.. then a water and white vinegar soaking prep after cleaning the rust clumps.. then did 2 thin coats of the Por closely spaced.

and I still have a bunch of cement re-bars outside that I Por'ed about 8 years ago for entertainment instead of dumping some excess.. Still looks pretty good.. and I live 1,000ft from Atlantic Ocean high tide.
go figure.......... Ron
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Old 12-27-2003, 03:59 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally posted by kcope
you can also thin it up to 20% and spray it.
I've sprayed a bunch of things with the Por.. it's pretty chip proof for suspension.. and the engine sheetmetal still looks great 5yrs later.

I guess you can use different preps.
the 50% water/vinegar is somewhat similar to the Por prep liquid.
gotta have a mask to spray. In hidden areas a brush and 2 thin coats is fine.
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Old 12-27-2003, 04:16 PM
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I have bare sheet metal with POR 15 on the underside of my car... before I bought the car I fully stripped the belly pans and put two coats of POR-15 on it. 6000 miles later, not a chip on it, and thats driving the car nearly every day for a summer through the horrid roads of Boston...

If thats not a testament to its durability, I'm not sure what is.

As everyone has said, cover everything on your body it might get into contact with -- it WILL NOT come off until your skin flakes off. Not that I'd ever admit to the problem, but I'll just say careful not to get it in your hair. Enough said.

Read the directions. Its important to top-coat it with something that will keep light off it. Most of the interior of my car was POR-15'd and then covered with flat black paint before I got it. I didn't cover the underside of the car under the assumption that its not ever in direct sun, and if it is, well I've got bigger problems than the POR reacting badly to the light.

One tip I'd give -- get a different color POR and top coat. If your final color is black, get gray and cover with black paint, so you can see where you missed spots.
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:54 PM
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Would you guys recomend just doing the parts of panels that are rusty, or just coating the entire thing? Also, anybody have any idea how far it goes, as far a coverage per pint/ quart/ gallon?
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Matt J.
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Old 12-27-2003, 06:17 PM
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I cleaned good metal down to bare shiny metal, treated it with metal ready, as the directions said. Rusty panels I left rusty, from what friends who have used it on restorations have said, it works better if its on rust anyway. I used a wire brush to loosen any flaking rust, and PORed over the rest.

I did two coats on the underbelly and most of the suspension components with a half quart of the black, if I recall correctly.

I bought a four-pack, and still have three left after doing all the other small parts of the car I've hit with it.

It doesn't last forever, though, so don't buy a gallon can if you aren't going to use all of it, spend the extra and pay for four quarts.
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Old 12-27-2003, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Todsimpson
Buy it in small cans (you can't ever dip your brush and then reseal)
Don't even open the can. Drill two 1/8" holes in the top opposite each other after shaking the can to mix thoroughly. Pour out what you are going to use in a separate container thru one of the holes (the other is the vent hole). Wipe the top clean and take two self-tapping sheetmetal screws of the proper size and put a rubber faucet washer on them, then screw them into the holes you drilled. Put the can into the refrigerator until the next time you need it. It will last amazingly well this way.

TT
ps- like with heating up parts in the kitchen stove, your "significant other" may have different ideas about the proper use of home appliances than you do. Store in the refrig at your own risk, unless you have the separate one in the garage for beer already...
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Old 12-28-2003, 06:25 AM
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Tom, that would go over just about as good as the time I put my fishing worms in the fridge without telling her. "Hey, what's in here....." Sounds like a good excuse for a beer fridge, how about an oven too for one of those DIY powder-coating kits? Then when she kicks me out of the house I can sleep in my Porsche and cook in the garage .
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Old 12-28-2003, 06:32 AM
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I've had POR-15 in the fridge for YEARS. Some of the Conventional Wisdom is true, some is false.

TRUE: Wives tend to not like an ugly jar of black fluid in the fridge for year.

FALSE: That POR doesn't store for long periods. My POR-15 is from my 914 years. I've had my current jar since at least 1997. It stores fine in the fridge. I put it in a mayo jar, put a Ziplock freezer bag over the top of the jar, and screw the lid on. Then put the whole thing in another Ziplock, and seal it as tightly as possible. If you just screw the lid straight on, you'll never be able to unscrew it.

That being said, it is best to get it in smaller sealed quantities. I'm just cheap, and could never throw any of it away.

Old 12-28-2003, 07:55 AM
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