Removing 30 year old injectors? USE CAUTION!
 

Thanks to all who got on the thread recently and provided some injector removal tips. Let me tell ya, this was no easy task as my cut up hands will attest to.

The rubber seals around the injectors were as hard as a rock and just as brittle. They refused to budge from the little metal cups that have held them in for thirty years despite copious quantities of lubricants! I made an interesting pry tool that required quite abit of leverage, and the result was only the injector coming out!
I had to use a needle nose pliers to carefully cut and pry the old rubber seal out. Once out, the new injector and rubber seal went in with little resistance.

I wanted to pass this on for anyone attempting to remove injectors from the 73.5 - 2.4 - CIS model. It was a very difficult task for me due to lack of room for good leverage and required force on what I would classify as very old "petrified" rubber seals.
Non-pliable is the best description.

The performance of new injectors though was like adding two more cylinders.......................what an improvement!!!

Bob
73.5T

Here's a tip:
Go to a junk yard and snag a CIS injector line off a VW, 924, Mercedes, Bmw, etc. Get a short one if possible, the ones with braided stainess covering are the best IMO. Plastic would be the worst, metal would work too.
You can simply screw it onto yor injector and pull (always use gloves, heavy leather gloves may be the best for this job). It will give you much more leverage and you can grab the thing with vice grips it necessary. It also protects the threads on your injectors.
If you really wanted to get fancy you could rig up a T handle on the other end like Porsche does.

If the injectors come out real hard make sure you inspect the phenolic insulator holders the injectors fit into. (EDIT, my SC has the phenolic holders, your post says your injectors fit into metal holders. Disregard this section if it doesn't apply). They get old and crack and can be a bear to remove. If they are cracked your injector o-rings will be loose and won't seal very well.

Sammy.
If I had a camera at the time I would have submitted a picture worthy of attention while trying to pull injector number 1.

I had the cap screw on with a heavy lanyard attached and tied inturn to a fairly thick rope (3/8" halyard). From their the rope was pulled through a large wooden block with two sheaves. I tied the block to the iron I-beam on my garage ceiling. This contraption was centered over the injector so when I pulled, the injector would clear the rear opened deck. Hear I am hanging on the line one-foot over the floor with heavy yard gloves heaving on this injector!!!!!!! My wife is looking on with utter amazement.

Finally, after yanking it, it popped out of the "petrified" rubber seal, but managed to come flying out at great velocity hitting me in the gloved hand. Close call and a certified OSHA violation!!

I said, nuts at that point and jury rigged a pry tool which still required a lot of leverage and mass frustration.

The 2.4 block uses these metal inserted "lipped" cups to hold the injectors. They are not on the intake manifolds like the 3.0 or 2.7 (?). The pry tool sold does not do the job on its own since the metal cup extends out 1/2 inch or so from the block. You would have to use another pry tool or place a hard object for the tool to rest on. I used another pry tool (tire iron) under the original pry tool to remove it straight out. In other words, a complete pain in the #@$&@!!!!!

Bob

Wow, mine weren't nearly that tight and I cursed at them!

Maybe having them pressed into the phenolic holders made it easier as the holders would crack anf give way before solid metal would.

It's prolly a good thing you didn't have access to any dynamilte at the time ;)