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carreradpt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Viera, FL
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Relay testing (out of car)

I think my heater/blower relay in the engine room is bad. I put 12V to the fan motor and it works. My rotory dial (auto heat) works up to 5 then doesn't do anything else. I can see the servo move. I have no fuses on the footwell blowers and all the fuses in the trunk and engine are good. Is there a way to test the relay? I don't know anyone close that has a spare that I could throw in there to check. A new one costs >$100.00. I do have heat and it worked well up until recently. Any suggestions?
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Dan T
'85 Carrera
Dansk premuff/sport muffler
7's and 9's, Steve W chip
Kuehl AC and fresh top end
Old 12-30-2003, 04:31 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Camarillo, Ca.
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Try to apply voltage to the coil side of the relay to listen for the click. verify that you have voltage both coil and switch sides and that the ground are good. If you need more info on which pins on the relay do what, I can get the info this weekend.Or some other pelican can chime in. I hope this helps!!
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Aaron. F.S. 1965 Solex engine w carbs/cleaner
Burnham Performance
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Old 12-30-2003, 04:56 PM
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Thanks Burn-Bros I'll take any help I can get. I did find a thread with testing the relay and I'll give that a try too. If anyone has a spare relay, as I think thats my issue, let me know what you want for it.
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Dan T
'85 Carrera
Dansk premuff/sport muffler
7's and 9's, Steve W chip
Kuehl AC and fresh top end
Old 12-30-2003, 05:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chews Landing, New Jersey
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On a four pin relay 85 and 86 are the coil
30 and 87 are "make" contacts, normaly open.

An old relay with 30 and 87 permanantly shorted can be used for testing it will imitate an operated relay. Useful if you are working alone.
You can also put a 12v lamp across 85 and 86 (taped on top) shows current availble to op relay.
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Old 12-30-2003, 09:20 PM
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I found this below. I got volts on all counts but I'm not sure about pins 5 and 6. Do I check at the wire that attaches to the fan? There was nothing on the relay coonector at those pins.

3. If no power at the compartment fan, suspect the relay. They are prone to fail. See this quote below from John Walker on testing the relay:

John Walker wrote: "the relay is the smaller one. #91161815300. the other one is rear defroster. check power to term 12 from the front fusebox.(black/red wire). check power at terms 7 and 8, from the center fuse on the engine room panel. (red/white wires). check power on term 3, from the bottom fuse, (red/black wire). one of these is "key on" power as i recall. for power out of the relay to the engine blower, check terms 5 and 6. (yellow/red wires). term 2 is grounded. "

Also, with the key on, engine off, pull the heater lever and the relay should click (mine does anyway). Mine tested fine, but I bought a new one just to be sure (stupid me, you'll see). If it passes John's test DON"T buy a new one, cost is $180 from PP!
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Dan T
'85 Carrera
Dansk premuff/sport muffler
7's and 9's, Steve W chip
Kuehl AC and fresh top end
Old 12-30-2003, 09:33 PM
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