Here's my 2 cents on the silver 84 in your link. Granted they are just my observations from looking at the ad and the pics.

1) Make sure burgandy is a color you can live with. There's nothing wrong with it, but any color other than black can be more difficult to locate replacement interior bits.
2) The odometer shows 59,xxx and the ad states 52,xxx miles. I'm not saying the sellers a liar, just a mistake perhaps.
3) Even though it only has 59,xxx miles on the odometer that's right around the point where valve guides need to be done on 3.2's if the have been worn prematurley. That's one important reason to get a PPI.
4) You metioned something about A/C in a previous posting. It doesn't look like this car has A/C.
5)I agree with Nostatic, if the seller would be cool with letting you have a PPI done before payment, go for it. But there's a lot of info left out of the ad.

Fender, one of the biggest rules I follow regarding car shopping or business in general is to be very careful when I have a reason to be suspicious, $85 for a PPI is a bit suspicious, and I would be hesitant to take the car to a dealer the seller recomended. I got a quote for a PPI at the Porsche dealer in OKC for the car I eventually bought, they charge $75 /hr, and three hours at the bare minimum to do a full PPI with leakdown, compression test, etc. Also, many of the Porsche dealers focus purely on the newer cars, and do not have techs experienced with the older ones, the dealership in OKC is an exception, I was refered to a specific tech by several Pelicans down there. To agree with nostatic, pictures can lie, my car looks great in pictures, and post a thread for a pelican in San Antonio to look at the car. If that checks out, go with a deposit contingent upon a clean PPI, just like the man says, and have someone in San Antonio refer a independent P-car shop experienced with older cars. Iron out a price outside of ebay, most of the cars I've watched recently haven't reached their reserve, the market seems weak, and all the seller wants is to sell the car, regardless of the method.

Matt, the only thing I disagree with is the part about a flat fee for a PPI. I had CT Automotive in Campbell do mine on my 86' & they charge a flat $100 for non-turbo 65-89 911's, and they are very thourough.

$100 for a PPI, including a leakdown, compression test, and a short drive? That's a steal! I was quoted at $204 at Dumonts in OKC, and $75/ hr for 3 at the dealership, so $225. I'd always heard to figure around a couple hundred, so that's a great deal.

I'll sell you my '73 T for $14,000 and if you want a cab I'll cut the top off for another $5K. I'll even throw in a PPI for free done by yours truly, such a deal . . .

Makaio thanks for your points i didnt notice that and i even looked at the pic with the speedo, thanks for the observ i will email the dealer tommorrow about that...the color i can live like i said i think i one of those rare people that doesnt like a all black interior i would rather any color rather then black a light gray would rock with the silver car. The car will sell it is a no reserve price. The car does have ac, the auctions has a Click Here for additional photos and it shows the motor with a ac comp..so yeah i am sure the car has ac....damn yeah thats what had me worried was the valves, the milage has affected and the texas heat? I agree a PPI would need to be in order here...the dealer states its a porsche dealership but i agree with Matt that it would be better suited to be PPI by a shop that does earlier 911. I will post another quections asking if somebody will take a look at this car for me. I dont want to spend the cash on a PPI if this carisnt what the dealer claims...Burning Oil anything else you want to throw in smart ass? If you put a electronic turbo on the engine I'll pay 35k

Done Deal!!! I just happen to be an electonic turbo expert and have already installed it per your request and have completed the PPI, the results of which were perfect - can you believe it? . Please forward the dough and I'll have the car delivered to the CA/AZ border ASAP.

Ok dough has been beamed to you , were the hell is my car.

one thing is that a PPI won't turn up worn valve guides...the only way to have an idea is to find out how much oil the car burns, and see it start when cold. I've read about guys pushing on the valve stems to see if they wobble, but I'm not sure that really works as a diagnostic for worn valve guides.

Keep a couple $K in the bank so if you've got to do a top end you aren't flattened if it comes to pass.

damn nostatic stop making sense, so a PPI wont indicate if the engine has worn valves? hmmm thats a problem, how much do you think it would cost if it had valve problems?

Yep! That's what I thought. I was ready to fork over $200-250, but they have pretty much a flat fee like that for PPI's.

Sorry, I don't accept pesos and I am going home so you'll have to buy your car elsewhere

a couple $K...depends how deep you go.

The bottom line is that any used car is a crap shoot. You roll the dice, and if something breaks, you fix it. The reality is that many people can afford to buy a 911...many less can afford to *own* one. You can get lucky and get a good car, and get unlucky and spend lots of money. PPIs and records are due diligence, but not guarantees.

At some point, you just decide if owning one is worth the money and risk, and you take the plunge. If you are risk averse, you should have a Camry.

So...are these cars worth it? I just wrote a big check. When the next thing breaks, I'll write another one. The car is just too fun...life is short and you're dead a long time.

And PPI costs are all over the map. But I wouldn't have a dealership do a PPI on a pre-90 car period.

Hell yeah these cars are worth it! thanks for the advice nostatic.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073363780.jpg Hmmm is that rust? or something else?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073363803.jpg looks like new tires will be needed?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073363827.jpg did they cover up something here?

don't know what's going on in the bottom photo. The engine sound pad is sagging, but that is typical. I think that is just dirt/leaves rather than rust, but that's why you need to see the car in person. Tires are not a biggie...price of admission.

auction ends on thursday the car is in texas i doubt i will have time when work takes up half my time.

One last post on this car " The seller ended this listing early because the item is no longer available for sale. " another Ebay deal that the seller ends early

Yep, more and more people are just using eBay to advertise, rather than actually sell, cars.

Emanuel

My 2 pence worth (approx 3.4c worth) ...

Do NOT buy the first car you see. There is something about a 911 that makes you want to keep handing the seller bundles of cash until he lets you drive home in it. There are loads of 911s out there, and it's unlikely that the first one you see is the best of them.

Get a PPI. There are PPIs and PPIs, so ask them to email/fax you a list of what they will check. If it doesn't include leakdown and compression, it's unlikely to be sufficiently thorough. For this age car, I would use an independent specialist not a main dealer. Indies will be run by people who were Porsche-trained on these cars when they were new; a dealer has probably never seen the inside of an SC engine bay before.

Cab vs Targa ... drive them both. I had a 968 Cab before, and was adamant that I wanted a 911 Cab. I couldn't afford one (there's a big price difference in the UK), but it's an easy and cheapish conversion from a Targa, so my plan was to buy a Targa and convert when finances recovered from the purchase and immediate work. One weekend driving it changed my mind: the Targa feels exactly like a cab from the driver's seat, and I quickly grew to prefer the look.

Any secondhand Porsche is likely to need money spending on it. If you're not going to do the work yourself, I would say (in the UK) budget £2000 for things that will probably need doing immediately, but the PPI will tell you more. US shop prices seem to be lower, so maybe $2000 there?

Other than that - what Nostatic said. At the end of the day, no matter how careful you are, it's a gamble. There can be an expensive thing that is fine when the PPI is done but is just waiting to fail the week after you buy it. Porsches are not cheap cars to run, but they are a joy to own and drive. Be as careful as you can, and then go for it. :-)

Ben

The picure of the tire, look at the seal between the fender and extension. It is painted silver, signs of a cheap respray. I just replaced the valve guides in my 87, it cost about $4500 but I also replaced the pistons and cylinders, clutch and all updates, half shafts rebuilt, starter and alt rebuilt, plug wires, sensors, head studs, sound pad.........