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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: So Cal
Posts: 20
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911T Oil Sump Seal
Hey everyone,
I checked the archives and and came up much dryer than my garage floor currently is.....so here go's I just performed my first oil change on the family 911, until recently, the car has been proffesionally serviced (my dad had deep pockets) but now I'm the care taker. So the car no longer has the original oil sump plate with the plug in it, it has the later model so I had to pull the hole plate. I bought 2 new gaskets and was told to intsall them dry with no silicone sealer....well long story longer, I now have an oil leak from the sump plate. ![]() I do not want to over tighten the nuts trying to get this thing to seal, so can someone give me some advice... thanks in advance Ian |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Linn County, Oregon
Posts: 48,523
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try new gaskets, and tightening the nuts in a staggered pattern, not one after another. According to Wayne's engine rebuilding book, these nuts should be torqued to 11nm, or 8.1 foot pounds.
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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Registered
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Ian,
Were the gaskets plain cardboard gasket material, or the German-made green, or graphited gasket material? One more important thing to check is the flatness of the flange area ... check by laying a machinest's rule accross the eight gaps between each pair of stud holes. If the holes are 'dented' around any of the stud holes, I recommend that the plate be replaced or flattened with a mallet and reinforced by brazing oversize-diameter washers around each stud hole. Per the factory spec book ... sump plate nut spec is 10 Nm or 7 lb-ft per the MMC torque chart below: ![]()
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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