Are there different grades of strippers

[scca_ita]

Paint stippers that is. I am painting the engine compartment.

I am using a "Aircraft Paint Stripper". This area took me about an hour. So the whole engine compartment will be about 8 hours to strip at this rate.

[Zuff911]

There are different grades of aircraft strippers. The kind you buy at Autozone is not all that potent and will take many applications. If you go to an automotive paint supply store they should be able to supply you with some professional grade stripper. Which ever kind you use it will still take a while. I took my entire car down to sheet metal (through three layers of paint) and it took a god awfull amount of time.
Brad

[3.2 CAB]

FLUSH, FLUSH, FLUSH.... Can't overstate! When you do you a chemical stripper, be sure to really flush out all nooks and crannies, it has a nasty habit of hiding in seams and places, then leaching out under your nice new paint. Some strippers have neutralizers that need to be used after their use.

[scca_ita]

Good point, there are a number of nooks and crannies which I am struggling with....

[targa80]

The best stripper I have found is Klean Strip aircraft stripper. It costs $30.00 ~$35.00 a gallon at Auto paint suppliers. I have tried cheaper brands and none works as well save your time and money and buy this brand to strip the car. I have no affiliation with the company just a satisfied user.

[azasadny]

I have used a commercially available product called "StripEze" to get rid of latex, enamel and varnish from metal and wood. I had to work it a little and rinsing was VERY important, but it wasn't too expensive and worked well...

[Formerly Steve Wilkinson]

I'm with Targa80. That's what I used to strip the entire car, and it worked splendidly. Be aware that it does do only one layer at a time, though, which is how the stuff works.

Stephan

[Matt-Man]

I have a lot of experience with paint and would have to agree with Targa80. The klean-strip is about the best you can buy. Very important to do as they say and try to put on one heavy coat brushing in one direction only as when you apply it, it forms a skin coat that helps keep the chemical from evaporating. Leave it on as long as you can (even overnight if it doesn't absorb too quickly). You might also experiment with some Saran Wrap layed on the freshly applied stripper to help hold the working fumes in. Very important in an area as an engine compartment to get all trace chemical neutralized, flush with a baking soda wash and use your air blower to chase out those impossible spots.

You may check if you have a soda blaster in your area, as it is fast and doesn't leave any trace chemical behind in those nooks and crannies.

Hope this helps, Matt