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 Alternator Install 
		
		
		While reinstalling my altenator into the fan housing I noticed the plastic cap in the back of the alternator is cracked...not a big deal I don't think? 
	But I also found a little bronze colored bit that fell out...oh crap I thought. I thought it looked like a electric motor brush that I've seen before on my remote control cars. Broke out the 101 projects book and found out that you can replace the brushes on the alternator. Once opened up, I confirmed that the little bronze piece was in fact a broken end of a brush. Guess I'm lucky that I found it before I reinstalled it into the car :shock: Any idea how much it cost to replace? Is it hard to find? Any leads appreciated. http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/mod...5729.sized.jpg http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/mod...5730.sized.jpg http://www.dorkiphus.com/porsche/mod...5732.sized.jpg  | 
		
 You installed the fan by pushing it onto the alt. shaft. This is a no no. 
	As a result you broke the brush and cracked the rear bearing support. Both need to be replaced. The proper way to install the fan is to use the alt. fan nut to "drive" on the fan. If you push/pound the fan on, the alt. rotor will slide in the alt. front bearing damaging both of the above. Have Fun Loren '88 3.2  | 
		
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 That's it. A good OEM replacement. Now get the rear bearing  
	cap/support.  | 
		
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 How do you replace the end cap/support?  | 
		
 You have to disassemble the alt. to replace the cap.  
	1. remove the six 5mm studs 2. with two screwdrivers separate the front alt. case with the rotor from the stator and rear case 3. remove and replace the plastic cap ($.50) 4. reassemble 5. install repaired/new regulator  | 
		
 Any idea where I can get the plastic cap? 
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 You can call your rebuilder or when you order the regulator from Pelican (call Tom), he'll send one which I'll provide him. 
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 Check also the slip rings that the brushes slide on...mine were worn thin and caused problems. 
	See my Pelican Tech article on this.... ---Wil Ferch  | 
		
 Wil, 
	I read this article, http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_volt_reg_replace/911_volt_reg_replace.htm But did not see anything on slip rings. Could you elaborate? Thanks! BTW Good article!  | 
		
 I found broken bits of commutator brushes..like you did..and these brushes ride on the circular part of the alternator shaft that is covered by a thin, but wide...copper ring. This ring was worn through and was replaced as part of the local alternator rebuild. 
	---Wil Ferch  | 
		
 Oh I see... 
	I guess because of my low mileage (32K), there is little wear on the armature ring. Thanks for the heads up though.  | 
		
 Turbolook: 
	Low mileage is NOT a good indicator whether the slip rings are good or bad. I'll ask Loren for confirmation, but my view is that for garage queens..the car does not get to drive often, and the "recharge" demands this puts on the "topping-off" function of the alternator is put to a severe test. In this mode, the slip rings would wear less for an often-run ( but high mileage) car, compared to a less-often run low mileage car that forces the alternator into a "high-load" recharge whenever it's run. I've seen a lot of low mile cars with bad alts for just this reason...IMHO... ---Wil Ferch  | 
		
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 Read my previous post again for instructions. 
	There're Tom and Thomas. You want TOM, one of the owners.  | 
		
 Thanks to all that replied...Spoke to Tom this afternoon, and everything should be delivered to me by Thursday. 
	BTW the dealer wanted to special order me a regulator for $180 :eek: Another satisfied Pelican purchase!  | 
		
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 The alt. can charge just as well as an external charger. It's all a function 
	of the charging current which essentially is a function the alt. or charger output voltage level.  | 
		
 I guess my whole point is that a designed-in function of the alternator is to  keep the battery topped-off....was never meant to act like an external charger for a severely low battery....the bain of garage queens..and the reason low mile cars may show problems. 
	---Wil Ferch  | 
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