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Which post on starter selenoid?

Gang,

I'm trying to put in a new starter selenoid but there are two posts.

One obviously connects to the starter body. Presumably the other connects for the battery and alternator wires. How can I tell which of the larger posts connects to the battery/alternator?

I pulled it because when I installed the new selenoid, I could here it click, but the starter never engaged. I'm sure the battery is fully charged and good.

Thanks,

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Last edited by cstreit; 01-26-2004 at 12:08 PM..
Old 01-26-2004, 12:03 PM
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Are there numbers on the posts? The wiring diagram shows "30" going to the battery. If memory serves, that's a German DIN standard code for a positive battery connection.

In any event I don't think there's a diode in the solenoid so it should go either way.
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Old 01-26-2004, 12:15 PM
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No number.

I wonder why then it clicks, but no spin...
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Old 01-26-2004, 12:24 PM
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Anyone?

This is driving me crazy. I here a good solid "thunk" as the selenoid pulls on the starter lever, but the starter motor itself doesn't turn. It did work before it was pulled out...

Gahhhhh!
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Old 01-26-2004, 01:29 PM
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If you have the starter out you can test the motor by applying 12volts to the terminal to the motor bypassing the solenoid. I would use jumper cables off of a battery. Connect the negative from the battery to the starter motor chassis. connect the positive lead to the + post for the starter. Then make sure the starter motor is held against something so it doesn't move. Touch the other positive lead to the + battery terminal. If the motor turns then you don't have a problem with the starter.

Now hook up the solenoid in the circuit and try applying power to the solenoid. Connect the positive lead to the solenoid + terminal then connect to the + of battery. You will also have to hook a jumper from the + terminl to the solenoid coil contact. The solenoid should engage and close the battery contacts in the solenoid to supply voltage to the motor.
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Old 01-26-2004, 02:27 PM
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Not sure if this helps but, there are two actions-

1. the solenoid gets a signal/voltage from the ig switch and pops the gear out using the bendix(?). That's all the solenoid does.

2. after the starter gear is fully out -and engaged to the flywheel ring gear- connections in the solenoid flow current (which the big battery wire is attached to) to the starter motor to spin it.

I haven't looked at a starter but I thought the other post should go to the motor itself. I may have this all confused. Probably easiest to bench test before install.
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Meanwhile other things are still happening.
Old 01-26-2004, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by john70t
Not sure if this helps but, there are two actions-

1. the solenoid gets a signal/voltage from the ig switch and pops the gear out using the bendix(?). That's all the solenoid does.

2. after the starter gear is fully out -and engaged to the flywheel ring gear- connections in the solenoid flow current (which the big battery wire is attached to) to the starter motor to spin it.

I haven't looked at a starter but I thought the other post should go to the motor itself. I may have this all confused. Probably easiest to bench test before install.
Gotta check something, more to follow,


If the solenoid closes and you got suffient current to the motor then the problem is in the motor itself. Worn armature or brushes or both. Bad bushings causing the armature to be off center will also cause problems.
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Last edited by anh911; 01-26-2004 at 03:24 PM..
Old 01-26-2004, 03:11 PM
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Chris,

Do you have the short, large, braided cable from inside the starter motor tightly bolted to the 'other' large M10 stud on the solenoid? It has to be secure before the starter motor will turn over with full power!

Did you clean & lubricate the pivot link [and bendix mechanism] from the bendix to the solenoid before bolting down the solenoid? I always use a high-temperature moly grease such as Swepco 101 grease or Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Grease #986 or #985.
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Old 01-26-2004, 03:35 PM
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yeah, good connections are a must. It's also very easy to think you have the drag link engaged when you really don't.
Why did you take it apart?

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Old 01-26-2004, 03:43 PM
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D'OH!

Turns out someone got REALLY creative wiring the cutoff switch...

Turns out there were TWO main wires that needed to run from the battery... I didn't see one when I was jooking up the electrics.

Motor turns over fine now.


THANKS EVERYONE!
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Old 01-26-2004, 05:05 PM
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Ya gotta love a happy ending.

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Old 01-26-2004, 06:25 PM
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