Time for rebuild. What's the thinking here.
 

Its time to have the broken head stud fixed. Not because the cylinder is leaking but because everything else with a seal is leaking. Its leaking so much oil the car looks like its on fire when I stop at a light. Everything seems to have started leaking when I switched to Mobil One. Maybe that was a mistake. Maybe it was not driving it everyday anymore.

So I went to my favorite garage today to discuss the leaks. Besides the headstud issue the cam seals are leaking big time. He quoted me about $1,000 to replace the cam seals and oil return tubes which are probably the cause of all the smoke since the oil drips onto the heat exchangers. His recommendation is to take the motor down and replace the headstuds, all the seals, oil return tubes, do the valves and check everything else. He estimates that should run about $2,800. He's leaving the bottom end up to me to decide.

Question is what do others that have gone through this think. We also discussed performance upgrades. His recommendations were cams and headers since I have a mass flow sensor. Headers would require me to move since Houston has a new standard for the emission test. Or I could spend big bucks to get an exhaust system that does have cats. Help.

Many have stated here that the bottom end is good for 250,000 miles. Or more. Many have also stated that by the time you get the heads off to do the valves, it's not that much more work to just open it up and install new bearings, bigger oil pump, yada, yada.

I don't mean it's not much more money. It seems to be a LOT more money. Go back to dino oil for the time being. You might find that your oil leaks will subside enough to just do the oil return tubes, cam seals and some other superficial stuff.

Usually if the head stud is pulled then you need to insert case savers into the case. That means that the bottom end must be rebuilt. $2,800 is a very cheap price for the entire rebuild. I'm doing mine myself and it's costing me about $3k. I think mechanics quote something like that and then run over budget or cut corners. Believe me it's an expensive thing to do and there are many parts to buy.

B.T.W. You don't really need a new oil pump if you have a '76 and later pump in good shape. If you track the car then it'd be a good idea to modify the oil tank to install a baffle so that you don't lose oil pressure under braking.

Good luck

Tristan

aluminum case engines break studs, they don't pull out. what's the mileage? a complete valve grind with all new parts would go for about $3500 in these parts. add another $1000 for 12 lower studs, rings, rod bearings and rod bolts. the oil pump should be fine.

John

You're right of course. I didn't read correctly. Thought he had a mag case. :)

Tristan

Might as well do the whole thing. Top and Bottom.

You might want to read my story at the link below . . .

On the Mobil 1 business - My car leaked like a sieve with synthetic oil. I switched back to dino and it's tight. I don't know why some people can use synthetic oil and others not. It may be the year of my car: 82.
- Bill