Replacing clutch master cylinder on a 1988 911

[CHRIS HIO]

Can anyone help me with a step by step explaination on how to replace the clutch master cylinder behind the clutch pedal of a 1988 911 Turbo look cab? I have a Haynes manual and a Porsche 101 project book and no one talks about it. I have just received the new part via Pelican and need HELP. THANKS IN ADVANCE Chris

[buttjoint]

The slave cylinder is located on the driver side of the tranie. Two bolts hold it in place plus the fluid line. You may have to drop the engine at the rear trans mount to access it. Remove and replace , makeing certin that the rod is in the fork dimple correctly. Bleed the system.

[CHRIS HIO]

Thanks but no thanks! I asked about the MASTER NOT SLAVE cylinder

[Jim Smolka]

Go ahead and pick up a copy of the Bentley Manual.

Having said it, the MC is behind the pedal cluster. Going to go back a year or so here, so I need some latitude. Drain fluid by first using a turkey baster (replace w/new before wife finds out ) to empty the fluid in reservoir. Then, loosen the hydraulic fittings by the tranny to drain the rest of the fluid from the clutch MC and Slave Cyl. Remove front drivers carpet and kick board. Remove MC. And install new. Not hard, very straight fwd job. Then bleed system. Best to use a pressure bleeder. Be sure to clamp off the reservoir overflow hose. Good time to add ATE Blue and bleed the brakes too. Good luck

[CHRIS HIO]

Can you just put plastic rap under cap on fluid reservoir instead of empting all the fluid and pinch off blue tube?

[ChrisL]

Yes, you can pinch off the supply line to the clutch master cylinder (in fact that's what I'd recommend). Of course you'll still need to bleed the clutch (but if you keep the fluid reservoir full, not the brakes).

Chris.

[Jim Smolka]

Since the car is over 15 years old, IMHO, it is best to drain all the fluid, and clean the reservoir. Seen a bunch of junk in the bottom of reservoirs.

[CHRIS HIO]

Sounds too simple. My wrench wants $300 labor. Has anyone out there replaced one by themselves? WHAT'S THE SCOOP?

[vash]

it is about a $300 dollar job, @ approx $110 per hour. but it isnt hard to do. i think the single hardest part is getting the feed lines from the reservior back into the new MC. other than that it is easy but, your on you back, messy, dark, crap falling into your eyes. you know the drill. i would order the motive power bleeder, which is by far the best brake tool i own ($45). because the second PITA part is simply bleeding the system. i just did it myself. and i went slow. but i did everything including the caliper and pedal cluster rebuild. and i changed the rubber lines too. and i didnt know what i was doing. i stop many times and fired up the computer to ask questions. which amazingly i got responses to within minutes. lets say i owe alot of beers around the country.

cliff

[vash]

opps i didnt answer your original question, here are the step by step instructions.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_master_cylinder/911_master_cylinder.htm


where are you located?

[CHRIS HIO]

Is it best to take the drivers seat out first?

[CHRIS HIO]

S.W. FLORIDA

[vash]

read the link i sent you. most of the work, you are underneath the car. that is where all the hardware is located. florida? wow, you couldnt be farther away from me, i was hoping i could help.

[CHRIS HIO]

Isn't the clutch master different from the brake master? The link is for the BRAKE?????????

[CHRIS HIO]

Was just in San Fran For the first time 3 months ago. Great weather,food,sites and curvy streets for P-car driving.

[vash]

oh crap, i am trying to read your stuff while writing a change order. i misread. sorry. i think there is also a tech article on the clutch cylinder. man my reading comprehension is crap right now. maybe is should re-read my change order. sorry chris.

[Jim Smolka]

Taking out the seat is not necessary, but it does make it easier.