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John Velasco 02-01-2004 07:24 PM

What to build?
I was looking at all the beautiful cars today and was wondering what I could do with the body of my ’76 911s. These years 74.5 – 77 were never a good idea. First the emission equipment did major damage and the bodies were a carry over from a time gone by, and with the big bumpers and skinny fenders they don’t lend themselves to a very performance-invoking look. All racecars of the time were turbo’s with wide and even wider fender wells.

So now here is my dilemma. My car has a fresh and strong engine (4700 miles); the suspension is well sorted and new. I like the way the car feels on the road and I will admit it is a blast to autocross with the skinny wheels. I have 993 C4s to drive and would like a different look for the ’76, I’m not sure I want to go the new fender install though.

Oh. And the body is rust free and straight. I know there will be no return on my investment, but isn’t that what a slippery slope is for, kind of like a slip in slide.

m325ix 02-01-2004 07:41 PM

RSR 3.0L look

RoninLB 02-01-2004 07:45 PM

Re: What to build?

Originally posted by John Velasco
I was looking at all the beautiful cars today and was wondering what I could do with the body of my ’76 911s.

I’m not sure I want to go the new fender install though.

Oh. And the body is rust free and straight.

I'm in the same position.
I'm not going to touch the Calif rust free body until I crash it.

pjv911 02-01-2004 07:48 PM

Backdate it to the longnose frt end. Then add a ducktail.

Kurt Williams

Randy Webb 02-01-2004 07:54 PM

sell it and buy an early car

John Velasco 02-01-2004 07:59 PM

I'm starting to lean in that direction, but with a fresh re-build?

Jim Richards 02-02-2004 04:50 AM

John, I agree with Kurt, backdate the look to the long hood era and add a ducktail. You'll have an advantage over the early cars with your galvanized body. You can also try to achieve some weight reduction, and then you'll have a car that's at least as much fun as an early 911E.

John Velasco 02-02-2004 10:32 AM

I have been looking at he older cars and am curious what it would take to install the longer hood and wings. I can see that I would need the hood left and right fender, appropriate bumpers (glass I presume?), can I use the mounting hardware from the current setup? Would the upper cowl need to be replaced? I am starting to feel a sinking sensation in my wallet. I suppose the best thing would to find a sacrificial car. One last thought, how much of the bodywork can be made of fiberglass?

I think I would like to keep the car a narrow-bodied design; did Porsche have any cars with the “ducktail” and skinny fenders?

“And so it begins”


MotoSook 02-02-2004 11:03 AM


Backdating doesn't have to be expensive. I bought rust free California fenders and hood for less than the cost of two new fiberglass fenders. Shop around, and being in Cali, you should have no trouble finding some.

I refused to pay top dollar for mediocre fenders that were being offered...waited..changed my plan..then found the set I have now 9 months after I started looking!

I'm welding on flares; however, if you don't want to weld flares onto your car, you can build a 911R replica.

Ron, well done flares won't take anything away from your nice Cali car....

For some of you out there, you may not have to paint the whole car like I will since your paint may be good as is. Just have the donor fenders and hoods striped and painted to match...same with the glass bumpers.

One more thing, don't go paying crazy prices for the early turnsignal. They should not be worth as much as some of the ones I have seen. I realize there is a limited supply, but some of the prices are just nuts! And if you are not bent on having the buckets, you can get the lenses, adaptors to fit to the fenders and epoxy motorcycle flush blinkers and marker lights to the backside of the and light! But! If you want to pay the crazy prices...e-mail me, I can use the money.

Good luck....

John Velasco 02-02-2004 11:07 AM

Souk, do have a picture or two?

MotoSook 02-02-2004 11:10 AM

John, I edited my first post with a couple of comments.

and here is the backdate thread: te+backdate

I have stripped the rear of the parts I won't need since I last posted on the above thread. I'm waiting on an RS rear bumper before I cut the flares. I'd like to test fit before I start cutting.

John Velasco 02-02-2004 11:23 AM

I just did a search on the 911R; this might be the project for the summer. I know that the middle year cars have little value relative to the actual cost but if they are backdated and done well will they be at least as valuable as the ’76’s are now? I like the car but may want to sell it at some point.

MotoSook 02-02-2004 11:25 AM

A proper backdate of a mid-year (crap! it's mid-decade! Lets start calling them by a better name!) should make the car more valuable....

John Velasco 02-02-2004 11:28 AM

Keep talking; I think you may almost have me convinced to go on a scavenger hunt!

MotoSook 02-02-2004 11:41 AM a keeping..

As has been stated time over time, a 74.5-77 911 makes a perfect candidate for a backdate. You'll have an early 911 with a galvanized tub! While backdating you can toss all the parts that you don't need and lighten the car to gain some HP/lbs advantage. There are some things on a an SC that did not come on our cars, but we don't really need them. There is talk that those SC "things" make the SC heavier than our cars, but I don't know that an SC can't be stripped to a car that is as light as our mid-decades can be.

Anyway, since our cars have such a bad reputation, a backdate is actually an upgrade (value added). Even if you still have a 2.7, one that has been sorted, the lightened car should still be a blast.

I've sold off some of the parts that came off my car, but I wish I could have piled it all on a scale and tell you how much it all weighed. Stuff you don't think of when you consider the total weight of the car, i.e. rubber trim nuts and screws, bumper shocks, bumper pads (9 lbs each on my scale!), lenses, brackets, washer fluid tank, plastic trim, under coating, crud from years of road use, rubber lines, etc,..

I wish I had weighed my car before I started to strip it.

John Velasco 02-02-2004 11:43 AM

Can you see this car in speed yellow and 911r trim with all appropriate racing decals. I always thought that Cbie hood lamps would be fun too.

TRE Cup 02-02-2004 11:45 AM

R conversion:
Front fenders- option- use your front fenders and have a body shop extend the sides and install our upcoming "R" front fillers
Steel headalmp buckets (fiberglass ones are notorious for losing lamps!)
Front R turn signal lenses
Front long hood
Front bumper
Rear bumper
Rear decklid (you can use yours, but the R had center spined grill openings)
Rear tailamp set up
H-1 or H-4 headlamps
Stripe kit
Rear quarter R windows
PM us for pricing and availability

TRE Cup 02-02-2004 11:51 AM

just saw the picture- very cool striping. I would make up some separate front fillers and paint them to match (along with the rest of the new body parts). The resulting seam would be very small and you can hide it with a period correct sticker!
Leave the existing fenders alone, leave the rear lid alone- pull the grill off and fit some stainless wire mesh.
the paint looks very nice, so no need to spend $$ on a total job
there- just saved you a bundle!
Lamps are pricey- if original, but there are other options that could work on the hood too. KC hi-lighters and similar brands can be modified to look close enough to the real $750/pair units

Jack Olsen 02-02-2004 11:59 AM

Soon, there are going to be a lot of "Bob Tilton Clones" out there. Be one of the first!

Randy Webb 02-02-2004 02:06 PM

Bob's car is very beautiful and needs only some tape on it....

Do you need galv. in Arcadia? Are you on the coast (salt)?

If not, then save a lot of effort and $$ and swap into an early car. Unless you are emotionally wedded to the particular one you have now...

Also, nobody mentioned the SC/RS look I think...

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