i hate CIS. at least it seems to hate me.
 

ok, somebody remind me why we even mess with these cars! i am trying to trouble shoot my alt system. i removed the noise suppressor, reconnect the neg battery cable. start the car, and poof, more like EFFEN-POOF!! i get the mother of all backfires through my intake. then nothing, the car wouldnt start. i knew what it was right away after i quit cussing. i figured the pop off valve stuck open. well no, the friggen pop off valve came off! after kissing my popoff valve, grateful it sacrificed itself for the sake of my airbox, i set to cleaning up old epoxy and sanded a clean surface. i reset my POV and am now going to wait 24 hours until i can mess with it. i assume i am running really lean. i made an appointment to get my air/fuel mixture set with a local mechanic (for the 16th). what can i check in the meantime?
i guess my flashing (albeit dimly) alt light can wait.

cliff

I would check into MFI.

I had problems with my popoff valve coming off.

So I put in on backward to allow maximum opening of the valve with the air filter on.
Second, I had it plastic-welded on. It ain't comin' off. Some folks counseled me not to do it, but I guarantee it ain't coming off.

- Bill

brawlins, i remember your thread. i had the hinge towards the back of the car, so i think the POV will open wide. you ever figure out why you got such a huge backfire?

An ignition ground wire was corroded. My wrench replaced the wire and it worked fine. I had no idea what was causing the problem. He noticed the wire. Apparently, the fuel/gas mixtures in the SC's can get real finnicky. It's running well now.

Got a question, though. Even though the power is good, it seems to diesel at times while idling. It will surge from from 1000 to 1100 RPMS and back and forth. Do you know what causes dieseling like this?

from what i can gather about CIS, some mild surging in RPM like what you have going on is normal. it has something to do with the "vastness" of the airbox. if i find the documentation, i will forward it to you. but i remember reading it.

cliff

Thanks.
By the way, we started a car repair club at our church. One of the guys has donated his 1970 Chevelle SuperSport to be a guinea pig for the group. We're going to pull out and rebuild the engine and transmission, as well as completely redo the interior. I've never done this stuff before. I don't have the guts to mess with the Power Train of my SC. I rely on my wrench. So, I'm hoping I'll gain the confidence through this car group.
- Bill

You could always be patient and wait for that cis to efi kit to finish :D

Bill:

Just make sure the V8 doesn't end up in your SC!

Problem with installing the popoff valve with the hinge towards the front of the car is that it may stick open, against the air cleaner. Of course, once it did it to you, you know where to look. Even my wife knows. ;) FYI: The car came like that.

George

brawlins, do you know if that is a big block chevelle? that will be nice. funny story: a buddy of mine once rebuilt a chevelle, from the frame up. i cant remember what year, it has been awhile with me and american mucsle cars. but the car came with the very desirable Muncie four speed tranny. he got lazy once and took the car to the shop for something mundane, like to get his brake fluid flushed or something. well upon picking up the car, he tried to do a burn out. no power! the motor was running sweet, but it was just sorta anemic. i go over to his house to take a look, by the time i got there he was fuming. he found out that the guys took his tranny and put in a regular four speed! he took the cops back to the shop, and watch them reinstall his tranny. it was the most amazing thing i have ever seen mechanically.

cliff

I believe the Chevelle displacement is 350ci.
It's already been modded somewhat for drag racing.

A funny thing about my friend sacrificing the car for the team is that it is almost perfect already.

We're ripping out a good interior because he wants to change the color.
I'm not sure why he's letting us rip out the engine and transmission. It seems to work fine. I think he's just allowing us to yank it apart and letting us rebuild it for fun! He's got about ten cars, including a '68 Camaro, '55 BelAir, the Chevelle, a couple of Mustangs, and a pickup truck modded to 650HP. He's totally into American Cars. One thing nice about the Chevelle: When you open the hood, it's just engine. No tubes and wires like in the modern cars.

You know Cliff, this sounds like the perfect excuse to switch to PMOs.:D C'mon, come to the dark side, who needs good gas mileage? Add some hotter cams, you'll be good to go.:p

Hey, also, did you ever do anything with your door handle yet? Was yours broken, or did you just want to replace it for cosmetics? I did mine this morning, it was incredibly simple. No more crawling across the passenger seat to open my door from the inside!:D

i havent even looked at my door. i keep getting sidetracked. i think my car is fighting back too. good job, matt.

I'll go one better than Matt:

Put on PMOs, yes, but put PMOs on after you modify your 2.7 with an Andial 2.9 kit.

How's a conservative 250 hp sound to you? :D

The reason I asked was if it's not broken, and you just wanted a prettier chrome handle, my old one is in good shape cosmetically, you could just swap out the trigger mechanism and lock cylinder.

Daddy likes:D

matt, i am a bit embarrassed, but i dont know what PMO stands for. (Blush)

but thanks for the handle offer. i am not convinced mine is totally broken. i can lock the door with the key, i just cant unlock it. so i think mine may be an adjustment/lube issue. i may go in today to find out. it would help my damaged ego to succeed in some fix. :)

PMO is the aftermarket company that makes Weber replica carbs....but they make them better. A "kit" starts at 2900 usd.

oh, wow! that is steep.

maybe i can epoxy a holley double pumper onto my airbox. hey at least it wont be a complete V8. :)

When you compare the prices on used Webers.....they aren't so badly priced....1500+ and they usually need a rebuild.

Try some of that graphite lube in a spray can. Shoot inside the lock cylinder from the outside, and if that doesn't help, take off the door panel and soak the hell out of the whole handle/ lock mechanism. You might get off easy with this one, I thought yours was entirely broken. Be nice to have something Porsche related take less time/ money than expected, wouldn't it? Of course, I'm still waiting for that to happen to me.:rolleyes: On a positive note, taking off the door panel helped me to find multiple loose or missing fasteners, so after a trip to the hardware store my doors should rattle a lot less.

OWP, yea i tried the graphite lube. the only thing it did was made the key slide in and out really smoothly. i think i am going in. my door rattles too, unfortuanately, it is the other door. :(

Yeah, that figures.

It's a labor of love, Cliff. :D