Powercoated lug nuts
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1076832531.jpg

My lug nuts were pretty bare and I decided to get them powder coated. Also I got a soft socket from our host.

Now what torque do I use to put them on?

Thanks

Frank

96 ft/lbs., I believe.

The 79 930 manual calls for 94 ft-lbs (that sounds high, but thats what it says). I usually put anti-seize on wheel studs, but someone here made the point that with aluminum lug nuts it's better to use oil so thats what I do now.

OH, NO! I've been over torqueing my lugs! :)

Those look very nice...did you do any prep work beforehand? Mine are all chewed up, I have got to get one of the sockets.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

Now THAT is retentive :) I got tired of thrashing mine....so I went with steel lugs for that hotrod look.

edit: They do look sweet, tho....

-b

Frank,
Very nice. I have the same sort of question as Wayne C. Did you do these yourself? If so, can anyone (like me) who knows nothing about painting do the same? Thanks.

Curlesw,

My son and his friend did all the work. :) He blasted them and protected the threads. Then they made a fixture (20 studs in a steel plate) to run them through the powder coating process.

That 94 ft-lbs sound a little high for me. I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a 1 ft ratchet trying to loosen them.

Frank

You don't want them to break or loosen either. Follow the factory torque spec.

PAG has a tech. bulletin out on the type of anti-sieze to use and where to put it. As I recall, a dab on the threads and a smear on the round "bushing" surface, but check to be sure.

I hope you didn't powder coat the round "bushing" surface?

I too wonder about the strength of the paint coating; looks like you masked the spherical portion of the nut contacts the wheel. You could've had them hard anodized too (black or brown are the usual colors).

And yes, it is around 94 ft.lbs. Use antiseize and tighten evenly.

Sherwood

Optimoly HT
 

I believe the antiseize stuff Porsche recommends is called Optimoly HT. I think the antiseize is a must for the alum. lugnutson the Fuchs wheels. Especially on the spherical seat surface. If you don't lube this area and it's really dry inside the lug holes of the wheel as well, the nuts can make an awful binding noise when turing them.

Torque spec. is what the others said. 130 Nm = 96 lb-ft

Frank, I'm sending mine to your son and friends since they enjoy this kind of thing ;) tell the good work!

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

"I got tired of thrashing mine....so I went with steel lugs for that hotrod look"
bb80sc: I don't know if it is o.k. to put steel lugs on magnesium rims, you might want to check on this. I would think it might cause stress cracking because the two surfaces aren't the same hardness but confess I really don't know.

It's not a problem, I think steel lug nuts are actually required for Club Racing. The wheel is aluminum not magnesium BTW.
I wonder how POR-15 would work in this application?
-Chris

Anybody with a 20+ year old Porsche and aluminum lug nuts should be replacing them all anyway. 7000 series aluminum aftermarket are half again as strong as OEM just by materials used. $100 is spendy but well worth it, could save your wheel or your life. Steel for track use is a good idea...

I bought a new set a long time ago, but finally put them on. Now, if I have to take it somewhere that's going to remove the wheels, I first remove all of my new lug nuts and swap with my old set. I don't even jack up the car. I just do them one at a time.
Then when I get the car back, I put my new ones on in reverse. Using a soft socket, of course. But, I still am very careful not to scuff them, or the wheels.
BTW, I could swear my owner's manual says 102 lbs. I'll check tonight.

Does the powdercoating thickness increase the lug nut size to 20mm? ;)

(They look fantastic, BTW!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1076960414.jpg

This is what they looked like when finished. The lug nuts are sitting in recesses on the fixture to protect the contact surface.

Powder Coat is somewaht like paint but this is not a DIY process as there is a electrical charge on the piece to attract the powder to the part. Then they are baked at about 350F. The result is a much harder surface.

Frank

Harder than bare alloy surface or harder than the previously anodized surface?

Mine were all scratched up and I got tired of touching up the scratches, so when I had my wheels polished I asked Al Reed what my options were.
He told me that for $1 each he would polish them. Deal.
With the polished surfaces whatever scratching gets done doesn't really show up and they look good all the time. Best $20 I ever spent.
This is not for the purists for completely original cars, but neither of those categories have anything to do with me ;)