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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 914
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Simply riveting...
Hey dudes, I've got a question for you. In order make a long story short, here is my question: Is it possible to remove and reinstall these rivets pictured below?
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83 SC (gone) // 72 T (gone) |
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SCWDP- Shock and Awe Dept
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For that application I would want to use solids. That makes a little more difficult for most DIY guys, but you could take it to a metal shop and they should be able to hook you up.
You could also just replace them w/ small bolts, but be sure to use loctight.
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Ryan Williams, SCWDP '81 911SC Targa 3.6 '81 911SC Coupe 3.2 #811 '64 VW Camper Bus, lil' Blue |
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
Posts: 56,178
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Don't see why not.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Indy,IN
Posts: 489
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Any fabrication shop or possibly a machine shop will have a hard rivet squeezer with a dome mandrel. If you wanted to drill them out yourself, I would recommend center punching the back side or flat side of the rivet and then start small and go up in drill bit size. You might not pop the rivet head off if you are tring to be careful and not touch the wheel itself, thats ok, you can finish it off with a punch and hammer.
If you already know how to work with hard rivets, sorry to waste your time. If you don't care about exact authenticity, I agree with Surflvr, use could use a button head grade 8 or stainless bolt with a selflocking ( k-nut ) nut or nylock nut with loctite.
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Weaver '88 911 Targa '03 911 Turbo, X73 Susp. '13 Panamera GTS PCA member Central Indiana |
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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Out of curiosity why to you need to remove the rivets?
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 914
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Thanks for the responses fellas. I have no experience with rivets so your information was great.
Pat, lol, I knew someone would ask this question. So here's the deal. There are two types of three spoke stock wheels for SCs, the standard wheel and the extended hub wheel (option M18). My quest for an extended hub wheel has been long and turned up overpriced wheels or ratty wheels. I recently bought a ratty wheel with hopes of releathering it and installing it. But I soon found out that the rubber part of the wheel (under the leather) has two cracks. So, my options are: 1) bondo the cracks or 2) unfasten the rivets, remove the wheel from the hub and install a new wheel onto the hub. What you are thinking: can't you just slide the hub behind the standard wheel you have? No, I can't. The two wheels (standard and extended hub) are completly different. That cheese grater part on the extended hub wheel is longer than the standard wheel (that is the source of the extension). The cheese grater part is also RIVETED to the wheel. Does it make sense? Why do I need an extended hub wheel? Cuz my legs are so damn long that my arms have to stretch to full extension to grab the wheel. So it's either sit too close to the pedals or too far away from the wheel. I could move my seat back straight up and down but then I run out of head room. Ahhhh, sometimes I wonder....ah nevermind. ![]()
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83 SC (gone) // 72 T (gone) |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 353
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Philip,
After some of the problems I have had recently with both of my P cars I am seriously thinking of trading them for a cement mixer. It will work out-keep the faith. Lar
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2001 Turbo |
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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Phil:
I'm sorry my curiosity got the best of me. I sympathize with your problem. No one would want to be uncomfortable while driving these cars. Good luck with the mod. If you are going to releather the wheel would the repair job not be noticed? Are the cracks so bad that they degrade the strength/safety of the wheel?
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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