Heater Cables

[3.2 CAB]

I don't know if this is frowned on or not, but I am re-posting this. I noticed that I mispelled cables in the previous post, so I wanted it to be corrected. I would not know what a "CANLES" is either!
But my problem is still the same.
Thanks a lot Zeke for the input.
So here is the same post again.
Hi, I need to find out a couple of things about the manual controled heater cables.
1. Do the new cables come complete with the outer jacket cover, or are they just wire cable cores?
2. If they don't come with the outer jacket cover, where do you get those?
The reason I ask is the drivers side cable broke at the control lever. When I tried to pull the cable core to see if it would operate the flap valve, it would barely move. I then looked at the cable at the flap box and found that the cable and cover tries to move down at the drivers flapper box. The core seems to be frozen into the cover. The flapper valve works fine, just the cable is not able to move it, being the cover is trying to move also. The spring pulls valve back open so I know its free moving. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

[vash]

i just bought the cables, all i got was the wire insides.

[fred cook]

The heater cables are most likely just the pieces of piano wire. You will need to order the housings (call PelicanParts if they are not in the online catalog) and the special little "barrel nuts" the fasten the wires to the flapper boxes and levers. They are prone to rust and almost always break when you try to undo them. When I replaced the cables and housings on my SC, I added my own finishing touch. I took a couple of rubber vacuum line caps, cut a small hole in the end, packed them full of grease and then slid them on the ends of the housings. That way, water can't get into the housings and the wires get a little shot of grease everytime the levers are pulled! Total cost? About 50 cents!

Good luck with your project!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

[Jim Sims]

Manual heater cable is a single loop of wire that goes to both sides (i.e. only one is needed):
75-86: PN 91142470101 or Pelican C-424-701-01 for $15.50.
87-89: PN 91142470107; this number comes up as a brake cable on the Pelican site for $20.77 but I think that's a typo.

Guide tubes; cable runs through guide tube (two are required):
74-86: PN90142470401 or Pelican A-424-704-01 for $18.25 each.
87-89: PN91142480400 or Pelican C-424-804-00 for $14.50 each.

Wire clamping screw (heat valve screw - called barrel nut above): PN90121168300 $2.95 each (two required).

The OEM equivalent (called a grommet - actually a rubber cap- and originally installed but often crumbled to dust by now on the the older cars) to the vacuum caps suggested by Fred Cook is PN99970215440 or Pelican K-702-154-40 for $1.75 each (two are required).

Cheers, Jim

[3.2 CAB]

Sounds like a plan. I will pull it off today and see if the guide tube is useable, and if cable core is long enough to work still. Thanks to all.

[911boost]

Jim,

Are the guide tubes that you listed above the ones that run from where the cable exits under the car to the flapper boxes?

Bill

[3.2 CAB]

Hi Bill, I'm not Jim but that is correct.

[Jim Sims]

Yes, they fit into sockets at the back of the tunnel and then run to the fittings on the heavy hose clamp at the heater valve. The control wires run inside of the guide tubes. Cheers, Jim

[911boost]

sweet, thanks guys. My guides were all shot, so I need to order some news. Order made.

Bill