| Series900 |
03-03-2004 03:46 AM |
Old habits die hard. The bonded part dilemma, Here is my take and advise. For FRP flares, yup, that's the process and new adhesives are way better than the old method of polyester resin with a thixotropic agent such as fumed silica or chopped glass. Steel flares, nope, and here is why. IF, when, the car gets damaged and the flare is involved you will not be able to perform standard tactics in repairing the 1/4. If the seam tears and the flare is buckled, let say. You will have to remove the bent flare , try to straighten and rebond. If the flare is butt welded, and it gets damaged, one performs standard metalworking skills i.e. hammar and dolly, pick and file, and shrinking techniques. These will not work out with the bonded flare. Is the bonded flare a faster install, yup. DIY? yup. welded flare takes more skill to do, the early turbo fenders were worked at the factory. I have a few pictures of an RS flare that was welded, car crashed hard on the left rear 1/4, I figured I would at least try to save the flare and clip the rear half of the 1/4. After pulling I was able to apply the metal working and save all of it. If that was a bonded RS steel flare, the flare would have to be completly removed, attempt to straighten the flare and 1/4 seperate, rebond etc. More work 2nd time round with a crashed bonded flare. Time and price will always dictate a decision. Is the bonding technique's fast,easy wicked cool results worth it after minor damage, when you can not apply traditional straigtening methods? Contemporary automobile construction techniques apply to contemporary parts, parts that were designed to be bonded to a chassis designed to accept them. Does bonding work, yes. are there negatives, yes. My suggestion in flare install is butt welded correctly, ground correctly, sealed from the under side correctly, minor fill and prime correctly.found some pics of damaged steel RS flare... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1078318588.jpg |
