So, I can’t paint (kinda long)

[curlesw]

Today was supposed to be a great day. Today I was suppose to be posting pictures of my newly painted and installed ducktail…instead I am publicly acknowledging I cannot paint. It’s so bad I can’t bear to take a picture. Here’s what I did:

- Gun DeVILBISS FinishLine FLG2 (same as Kurt V used in his excellent Ducktail painting write-up)
- Primed and sanded, no problem
- Base paint Deltron 2000, turned out good only a couple of minor fixes, no problem
- Clear coat Concept 2021, big problem

I figured something was wrong when I started applying the clear coat. The finish had an “orange peel” look to it but I’m new at this and just figured it would dry clear. So, I applied 3 coats and waited for it to dry to sand. I waited 6 days before I sanded the clear coat, work to dang busy (not sure if this contributed to the problem). I sanded starting with 1200, then 1500, and finally 2000. I started with 1200 because the orange peel was very pervasive. Even with all my sanding I could not remove the orange peel. Helplessly I tried to buff out the remaining orange peel but to no avail. The result is a very cloudy finish with orange peel throughout.

Looking through some literature the cause and effect seems to be:
- Gun too close to surface (I doubt this one)
- Air pressure to low (I had it 40 psi at the gun per instructions)
- Improper thinner used (I used reducer, what thinner? Same thing?)
- Material not properly mixed (how much do you gotta mix this stuff?)
- Surface rough, oily, dirty (I doubt this one because the orange peel is everywhere)

So my plan is to sand the whole thing down and start over. Before I do, does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, or wisdom they can share? Hopefully I can get it right this time.

The one success I did have this weekend was that I made excellent progress on polishing my 8” Fuchs…at least I know I can do that.

TIA.

V/r
Wayne C.
83 SC (Ducktail-less)

[ruf-porsche]

Could be the reduction in the paint. What ratio did you reduce the paint with thinner?

Try practicing on some scrap piece to get the technique down before painting the Porsche.

My first paint job was also a disaster, but the more you paint, the better the job will be. Even got a compliment from a FERRARI owner on one of my car.

[Jim Sims]

I only know a little about painting, but here are two possibilities:

Air pressure is usually measured at the gun with the trigger pulled (dynamic flow pressure); if you set the pressure statically it was likely too low when air was flowing.

You let the clear coat sit too long (it is rather hard after 6 days) before trying to sand/buff out the "orange peel"; here are notes of the instructions we followed:

B. Clear coat
1. Wait 18-24 hours minimum after clear application before sanding.
2. Check with paint supplier for product-specific guidance.
3. "Orange peel" is caused by irregualrities in clear coat.
4. Object is to first cut surface bumps, not cut into valleys.
5. Use as stiff a block as practical (do not use bare hands/fingers- one can't control the pressure).
6. Grits in common use (this is wet sanding):
a. 600-1000:
I. Do not remove all hills in this step
II. Surface should be spotty, a mixture of shiny and dull
b. 1200: more of surface is dull, fewer shiny spots
c. 1500: still more dull; little shiny = minor valleys gone
d. 2000: uniformly dull; finally flat = valleys gone
7. Alternate directions with each change of grit.
8. Cleaniness of water supply important for grits less than 1200; use bottled water in extreme cases.
9. Buff with appropriate polishing product after sanding (contact your paint supplier for recomendations).

Cheers, Jim

[KevinP73]

A couple things come to mind right away.
1. Are you sure the orange peel is in the clearcoat. If you put the base coat on too thick (under reduced) you may be seeing the base coat as opposed to the surface of the clear.
2. If you shoot the clearcoat too thick (too fast also) you will get a "cloudy" looking clear coat.
3. You may have the gun too far from your work surface. This makes for a ton of orange peel that will not "flow out' smooth as the clear dries.
4. DCU 2010 does not require any reducer or thinner. It's mixed 4 parts clear to 1 part hardner. At the most you can add a capfull of base maker to help it flow out but this trick is mainly used by experienced painters in limited situations.

[aigel]

Painting is an art. If not that, it takes a lot of experience, good tools, good matieral, patience and a dust free environment. Obviously you do not have experience and you did not have enough time set aside for the project. Only way to get more experience is NOT to give up and keep trying. And next time schedule things a bit better. I actually don't think that the 6 day wait before sanding is a problem. You should not have to sand, except to get it smooth as glass. That smooth as glass look isn't a factory look. It is a showcar paint look. Factory paint has a bit of an orangy look to it.

I don't have a clue about painting and tried several times by myself in my garage, always with rather poor results. The best I could do always got messed up by contaminants. Either dust or humidity. (CA vs. the ole South)/ At some point I decided to leave it to the pros. (I usually don't do that, my cars NEVER see a mechanic.).

Here the result from a recent trunklid project. I did the badge delete (I can mig weld) and I did a coarse prep and left the rest to a very good painter.



Just keep trying. Don't give up too soon. And remember, most folks don 't have an eye for paint work as much as you do if you did the work yourself. Getting that paint off again to redo, isn't too bad. The main work is in the prep anyway.

Ah, and yes, reducer is a synonym for paint thinner. I guess it 'reduces' the amount of paint in the total volume.

Cheers, George

[ruf-porsche]

One more thought, you are using a filter and water separator with the compressor. If you are not, water in the air supply could be causing the cloudy portion of the problem.

[curlesw]

Thanks for all the feedback guys...I'm going to give it another try, will practice a little more beforehand, esp with the clear coat.

Jim, thanks for the tips, esp on sanding, will be most helpful.

Kevin, I am using 2021 not 2010, mix is 4:1:1 (clear:reducer:hardner). Maybe I did not mix it thoroughly, it did not seem "clear" when I mixed it, kind of cloudy in the cup.

Aigel, agree I did not set a side enough time...too excited to get it done, live and learn what color is your car...looks close to mine in the pic, Rudy Red.

ruf-porsche, yes, I am using a filter...maybe I should use a new just in case.

Thanks again Hopefully I will be posting a good results soon.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

[Zeke]

Two things you can do at this point: Sand smooth with 600 and shoot another coat of clear or take the car to a proffesional detailer and have them sand it out and buff it. Of all the talents required to produce a nice finish, I think the polishing is the toughest and sometimes better left to the pros. It's not that costly either.

[KevinP73]

How about a DIY'rs paint clinic ? I'll provide the shop space and attendee's (SP?) can provide materials and parts to be painted (NOT COMPLETE CARS) and observers can bring burgers, beers, dancing girls, wit and wisdom. It would have to be on a Saturday. Any One interested?

[curlesw]

A clinic would be great...I'm in, just not 19 March, that's my wife's B-day. Thanks Kevin.

v/r
Wayne C.
83 SC

[Jarrett88]

A clinic sounds great to me, need to fix my work truck and van, so i could practice there and then i want to move on to the porsche